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Favorite Winter Crags
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By Dan Cast
From New York, New York
Nov 20, 2013

Curious what everyone's favorite East Coat winter crag is (rock not ice)....


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Nov 20, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Sort of East-Coast...NC:
Rumbling Bald
Laurel Knob
Looking Glass


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Nov 20, 2013
Hey there!

Old Rag!


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By J. Nickel
Nov 24, 2013

I assume you're looking for something in the NE. Further South, head to the RRG.
The Trapps or Near Trapps can be great on a sunny 35 degree morning.
There's a little cliff near Lake Luzerne, NY called Potash (see the Adirondack Rock new routes website if you're interested) that overhangs and faces South and has a mix of sport and gear routes from 5.8 - 5.13. It's climbable most of the winter if it's sunny.


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By Dan Cast
From New York, New York
Nov 24, 2013

Thank you J. Nickel - that's exactly what I was looking for.

Any other North East crags worth a winter weekend visit from NYC? I'm new to trad climbing so easier terrain would be preferred. Not opposed to sport or bouldering areas either. Thanks for the suggestions!


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By john strand
From southern colo
Nov 24, 2013

Lot's of the crags in CT are nice in winter.


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By grant kendrick
From northampton, ma
Nov 25, 2013

East Peak Amphetheater in CT is toasty anytime the sun is on it. Rumney's Main Cliff is good in the winter, as are several areas in Western Mass--Farley, Sanctuary and Sundbowl. All are east or south facing, so are warm in the morning while the sun is on them.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Nov 25, 2013
modern man

New Havens West Rock is the warmest crag in CT, completely south facing and close to the LI sound. You could train it to New Haven and hop on a bus from there.
www.mountainproject.com/v/west-rock-ridge-state-park/1083685>>>

one of the cities best pubs is right across the street from the crag as well, Delaney's Taproom


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By Meme Guy
From Land of Runout Slab
Nov 25, 2013
Meme guy

Anything in the South, but the north side of Stone Mountain (NC) is my favorite winter crag.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Nov 25, 2013
Stoked...

East Peak and West Rock are probably your best bets. I've climbed in the alcove @ East in mid winter. 20 deg in shade 50+ in the sun out of the wind. The key is NO clouds and no wind.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 25, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

The Cirque, or really anything in the sun at Endless Wall, NRG.


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By JacksonLandFill
From Maryland
Nov 26, 2013
not everyone smiles

Seth Derr wrote:
Old Rag!


This is the second time I've seen Old Rag mentioned. Why is this a good winter spot?

For winter does one use gloves to climb? Serious question.


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By jim.dangle
Nov 26, 2013

JacksonLandFill wrote:
For winter does one use gloves to climb? Serious question.


Not generally. Pulling rock moves wearing gloves is pretty damn hard. The cold rock can be brutal though so having gloves or mittens to put on immediately afterward and before is pretty key. Also clutch are kangaroo pockets. Every so often I put a hand warmer in a chalk bag but its sort of overkill. Your feet also get cold. I have seriously considered bringing large warm comfy slippers to the crag. I'd probably wear Uggs boots if I thought I could get away with it.

If you want to climb in gloves, use leather ones as much to grip the rope as for the rock. You can buy fancy mixed climbers gloves if you really want but a lot of ice climbers just use work gloves, which are far less expensive.

I should also add that the hearty can climb pretty much year round on Cape Ann. The land is sandy and well drained so very little ice tends to form on the cliffs, and the proximity to the sea tends to moderate the temperatures. A little booze also helps.

Jim


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