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Favorite New England Climbs?
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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 24, 2012
Oh, come on now G- Mark has issues ( smile)

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 24, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
I think you meant Jake. I am perfectly normal and an excellent driver.

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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Oct 24, 2012
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
Can't believe Beat Junkie got only one mention!

What style are you looking for? There's a huge variety in New England, everything from pumpy jug-hauling (e.g. Ginseng, Shagg It), to hyper-technical beta insanity (Coral Sea, Dodge the lemons, Urban) to bouldering on a rope: Bottom Feeder, Stone Monkeys, to technical face crimping: Great White.

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Oct 24, 2012
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
The Prow, Recompense, Rapid Transit, Toe Crack--Cathedral, NH

The Crusher, Espresso, Flesh for Lulu, Sweet Polly Purebred, Black Mamba, B-B-Buttress--Rumney, NH

The Rose, The Thorn, The Deep End, Ganesh, Politics of Dancing, Eagle Point Crack--Vermont

Gunklandia, Old Town, Green Mt. Breakdown, Chick of the Sea--Acadia, ME

Sadly, the ADKs are considered the Northeast, and NOT New England, otherwise my list would be exponentially longer.

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By S. Neoh
Oct 24, 2012
For sea cliff climbing experience, check out Great Head in Acadia National Park. I cannot recall the names of routes without a detailed topo/guide in front of me.
Over at Otter Cliff, Guillotine, A Dare, and Riptide (did it get wiped out by the rockfall?) were all memorable for me, even on TR.
Tho Gunklandia is significantly easier than OP's 5.10~5.13 range, Gunlandia link into Return to Forever is quite enjoyable.

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By Eric Engberg
Oct 25, 2012
S. Neoh wrote:
For sea cliff climbing experience, check out Great Head in Acadia National Park. I cannot recall the names of routes without a detailed topo/guide in front of me. Over at Otter Cliff, Guillotine, A Dare, and Riptide (did it get wiped out by the rockfall?) were all memorable for me, even on TR. Tho Gunklandia is significantly easier than OP's 5.10~5.13 range, Gunlandia link into Return to Forever is quite enjoyable.


Head Arete (10+) and Morning Glory (8+).

But the final answer(s) are in much more urban NE. Jane and Cro-Magnon. Case closed. Next question.

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By S. Neoh
Oct 25, 2012
You got it wrong Eric, the final answer is My Mind Is A Blank at College Rock, MA! Best of the whole NE.


To everyone else - just kidding.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 25, 2012
LadderLine at the Quarries

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 25, 2012
Topo - Cliffs in Green
Eric Engberg wrote:
Head Arete (10+) and Morning Glory (8+). But the final answer(s) are in much more urban NE. Jane and Cro-Magnon. Case closed. Next question.


Ya screw Otter Cliffs... get ur gear and head right over to Great Head That is the place to be (well not in a storm) for classic huge NE sea routes.

Fish Scale 12d is super proud:

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By Greg Pouliot
Oct 25, 2012
Jake D. wrote:
He probably flipped through the guidebook and guessed.. Greg's experience at rumney doesn't get far from parking lot wall. +1 on Orangahang to the Rumney list Future Shock at Whitehorse.. such a cool feature. (and i hate slab so that says a lot) RI boulders.. Chelsea Smiles.. one of the hardest in the NE Chemical (even the easier stand start is fun) Loadies Zen


The guy asked for some favorites, I gave him some favorites, even if they're not far from parking lot wall. I'm not a 12-13 climber so I can't speak for routes like Orangahang, although I'm working to get there. Can't wait to get on Future Shock either. Looks super cool.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 25, 2012
When alain Comeau. the f/a guy for Future Shock was working on ths ffa, he really thought about the 10+ grade. Really

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By John Husky
Oct 25, 2012
Moby grape is OK hardly a classic - 100' of good climbing

What?!

All due respect, but this is madness.

Also Rose Crack is much steeper than it looks in that photo, overhangs the whole way, but I would say that it is a VT classic, not a NE classic. Not high praise.

Spider's Web, Daks.

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Oct 25, 2012
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
John Husky wrote:
Spider's Web, Daks.


Like I said, the Daks are not considered New England, otherwise this list would be eeeeeeennnnnddddllllleeeeeesssssss...

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By John Husky
Oct 27, 2012
Sorry, I see New England and read Northeast.

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