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Favorite New England Climbs?
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By Nick Lincoln
Oct 23, 2012

Well the question says it all, whats your favorite new england climbs.
Dont post anything to hard, Im climbing 5.10-5.13 trad/sport.


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Oct 24, 2012
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

I really hope this doesn't turn into a spray fest with mp-ers saying that their favorite climb is the xyz route of abc x 2 grade.

I'll go with:

Recompen-beast: a direct and more prominent line connecting more obvious natural features than The Prow.

Last Unicorn and its somewhat overlooked neighbor Lost Souls: fantastic face climbs with outrageous exposure because they start high up a hillside.

Chitlin's Corner: A Mount Desert Isle classic features two pitches up a very prominent corner, don't forget the commanding National Park worthy views from the belay stations.

Whitney-Gilman Ridge: It's hard to find this much fun be this easy...unless it's 1938.

Massachusetts and Connecticut - sorry. There's some fun excursions, but nothing in the "best of" category.

Rhode Island - keep clinging to the eastern seaboard. I still don't get why that state gets 2 representatives in the Senate.


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By Nick Lincoln
Oct 24, 2012

Thanks!


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By Linnaeus
From New England/ Baltimore
Oct 24, 2012

Whitney G is great, the 5.8 and 5.9 variation sections are also nice. It's a good night climb as well.

Moby Grape is stellar as well; the climbing is more difficult than W-G, the features are awesome, and it's a long route with mostly stellar climbing. Be sure to take Reppy's Crack for the 1st pitch, which is the standard start now.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Oct 24, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

Trad multipitch: Moby Grape 5.8 on Cannon
Single pitch Trad: Connecticut Crack 5.11- at Acadia
Sport: Venus on a halfshell 5.12c in Rumney


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 24, 2012
Stoked...

lucander wrote:
Massachusetts and Connecticut - sorry. There's some fun excursions, but nothing in the "best of" category.


IDK about this with regards to CT. We're the only place in New England with the amazing bullet Trap Rock.

Unconquerable, Cat Crack, Dol Guldur, Sublime, just to name a few harder classics in the state, are nothing like anywhere else in New England so I would say your're wrong. CT has the Best Traprock climbin in New England.

There's also some amazing lines at Chatfield Hollow like Shape Shifter (12 sport) and Forearm Frenzy (11 trad) that are, IME, unique to New England.

I am a bit biased being the CT admin...


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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 24, 2012

RI has some very good bouldering.. really.

The best long-ish route in NH is Women In Love at Cathedral- 12a, 5 pitches. For a one pitch, it's hard to beat Budapest 11+ same cliff.


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By GMBurns
Oct 24, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

Chitlin's Corner (even just P1) in Acadia
Bartleby in Acadia
Recollections of Pacifica in Acadia

Book of Solemnity at Cathedral
Bird's Nest at Cathedral
Recompense at Cathedral
Toe Crack at Cathedral
Pine Tree Eliminate at Cathedral
They Died Laughing at Cathedral

WG on Cannon

Underdog at Rumney
Jaws II at Rumney
Armed and Dangerous at Rumney
Both Jolt and Dolt at Rumney
Millenium Falcon at Rumney


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 24, 2012
Stoked...

GMBurns wrote:
Jaws II at Rumney


JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon...

Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.


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By jackkelly00
Oct 24, 2012

Vertigo's (Cannon- 5.9 A0) got my vote.


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By Ming
Oct 24, 2012
At Railay East Beach in Thailand

Oosik @ Farley is a great 12A.


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By sthomas
Oct 24, 2012

Ginseng (5.12c) or Shagg It (5.12d) at Shagg Crag in Maine

Predator (5.13b), Giant Man (5.12b/c), Technosurfing (5.12b) at Rumney

The Prow (5.11d), Recombeast (5.9), Deidre (5.9+) at Cathedral

Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) and Vultures (5.10d) at Sundown Ledge

VMC DD (5.10+) on Cannon


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By Greg Pouliot
Oct 24, 2012

A lot of people consider Underdog to be one of the best 10's at Rumney, I would agree. Easyish climbing but super fun. Same can be said for Armed and Dangerous. Masterpiece is also really good. Just got on Protruding Forehead at Shelving Rock, along with Johnny Tsunami and Die by the Drop. All super fun, sustained 10's.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 24, 2012
Stoked...

sthomas wrote:
Ginseng (5.12c) or Shagg It (5.12d) at Shagg Crag in Maine Predator (5.13b), Giant Man (5.12b/c), Technosurfing (5.12b) at Rumney The Prow (5.11d), Recombeast (5.9), Deidre (5.9+) at Cathedral Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) and Vultures (5.10d) at Sundown Ledge VMC DD (5.10+) on Cannon


This is a REALLY REALLY good list! SHAGG def has some of the BEST in New England!!!

The other one I totally forgot of was WILD RIVER, Big Red (5.11d) 145ft.! WILD RIVER IS A MUST!!!


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By S. Neoh
Oct 24, 2012

A lot of good routes given already.
I would add, for Rumney alone, just about every climb between OrangaHang and Tropicana (P1&P2) at Orange Crush is worthwhile. Plus Buried Treasure (and Black Mamba, P1&P2, already mentioned).


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Oct 24, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

CaptainMo wrote:
IDK about this with regards to CT. We're the only place in New England with the amazing bullet Trap Rock. Unconquerable, Cat Crack, Dol Guldur, Sublime, just to name a few harder classics in the state, are nothing like anywhere else in New England so I would say your're wrong. CT has the Best Traprock climbin in New England. There's also some amazing lines at Chatfield Hollow like Shape Shifter (12 sport) and Forearm Frenzy (11 trad) that are, IME, unique to New England. I am a bit biased being the CT admin...



Id toss in Dol Guldur at East Peak as being the best 5.11 in the state


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By Nick Votto
Oct 24, 2012
Bolton, VT

VMC Direct- Cannon
Lab Wall- Cannon
Gamesmanship- Poko
Fastest Gun- Poko

Almost any Barber route on Cathedral/ Whitehorse


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Oct 24, 2012

CaptainMo wrote:
JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon... Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.


He probably flipped through the guidebook and guessed.. Greg's experience at rumney doesn't get far from parking lot wall.

+1 on Orangahang to the Rumney list

Future Shock at Whitehorse.. such a cool feature. (and i hate slab so that says a lot)

RI boulders..

Chelsea Smiles.. one of the hardest in the NE
Chemical (even the easier stand start is fun)
Loadies Zen


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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Oct 24, 2012


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 24, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

To add some less well known ones, since they are not right by the road:

Mr. Owl 12b/c sport - 100 feet of steep, intricate face climbing on Owl's, Right Cliff, NH.

Crack of the Future 12b/c trad - finger crack and face climbing, Owl's, Left Cliff

The Alaskan Slab 11d sport. A cool one pitch slab to pockets and corner route - Owl's Left Cliff.

Greenpeace 12a trad - 200 foot finger and hand crack, Green's Cliff, NH

Too many to list from Rumney, but I'll add Beat Junkie 13b, Corral Sea 13b, The Crusher 11d, all sport.


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 24, 2012
Bucky

M Sprague wrote:
To add some less well known ones, since they are not right by the road: Mr. Owl 12b/c sport - 100 feet of steep, intricate face climbing on Owl's, Right Cliff, NH. Crack of the Future 12b/c trad - finger crack and face climbing, Owl's, Left Cliff The Alaskan Slab 11d sport. A cool one pitch slab to pockets and corner route - Owl's Left Cliff. Greenpeace 12a trad - 200 foot finger and hand crack, Green's Cliff, NH Too many to list from Rumney, but I'll add Beat Junkie 13b, Corral Sea 13c, The Crusher 11d, all sport.


Mark, you beat me to it....I was starting to wonder how nobody had mentioned Beat Junkie. That rig is classic coast-to-coast.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 24, 2012

As far as the routes mentione
recompense is ONLY worth it with the beast variation
Moby grape is OK hardly a classic - 100' of good climbing
The VMC direct direct is by miles, the best route on Cannon.

The fact is that 5.11 is the grade for NH.. sport or trad


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Oct 24, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

For sport in NH, I think you would want to include 12 and 13 or you will miss an awful lot of classics, especially at Rumney, even 14 there.

If you are coming for a visit, get Ward Smith's latest Rumney guide and Jerry Handren's brand new "North Conway Rock Climbs" for NH. Jerry's book will get you drooling for all kinds of routes you probably haven't heard of previously even if you climbed here 25 years. Shell Pond in Maine looks really good for a sport area I haven't been to yet. The new Vermont guide opened my eyes too even though I haven't been able to pick up a copy yet.


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By Brian Rhode
From Boston, MA
Oct 24, 2012

Yes, the best routes keep coming up, some of the ones I've enjoyed most:
5.12 Technosurfing, Giant Man, Flesh for Lulu, Vaporizer
5.11 Lab Wall, Lights in the Forest, Crusher, Stone Temple Pilot, Children's Crusade
5.10 VMC DD, Last Unicorn, Lost Souls, Across the Universe, Peer Pressure
5.9 Diedre, Recombeast, Chitlin Corner
There are many more great ones, and also so many that I haven't even got on yet!


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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 24, 2012

Mark- forever the diplomat


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By GMBurns
Oct 24, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

CaptainMo wrote:
JAWS II???? REALLY? you're going to put that down on a list of best climbs under 5.13 in New England? Come'on that list stinks for Rumney all over... maybe except for the Falcon... Rumney list should include: Predator, Techosurfing, Social Outcast, Flyin' Hawaiian, Rip Tide, Flesh for LuLu, Thin Man, Giant Man, Restless Native, Man Overboard, Black Mamba, Stone Monkey.


my god I never knew just how...

...

wow, this is mind-blowing.

Like really eye-opening.


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