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Favorite Indian Creek 5.11's

Original Post
Robert Daniel · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

What is your favorite Indian Creek climb in the 5.11 to 5.12- range. Please let loose on why it's your fave. Thanks!

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

Any of the finger cracks

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

The one not getting gang-banged by spring-breakers who can't climb.

BJ Sbarra · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 671

Ouch Rob, harsh. They gotta learn somehow...

To get back to the original question, hard to go wrong at that grade but some ones to check out:

Sinestra
Spaghetti Western
Thank God for Pods <- obscure but soooo good
Double Trouble
Nine Lives
Unnamed 11- on far right side of the Res, #1's forever!

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

No way dude. They need to learn someplace else, where everything doesn't get buttcracked out. People have been flailing on the Turkey Rocks for a lot longer and those climbs show very little in the way of traffic.

And yeah I was a gumby for a long time and did my share of helpless thrutching, I don't claim to be better than anyone. But the desert is a fragile place and I wish people took better care of it. If we're going to have 'sacrifice crags' they need to be in more durable environments.

andrew mcmillan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Check out torque wrench at scarface. Has a sweet sporty bit on an overhanging prow that you kind of hump over. Need to keep your last piece fairly low or else your top piece will get sucked into the crack once you make it over. 150 ft. This photo says it all, although the fall is better than it looks (you just whip back into the chimney) Really unique climbing for the creek.
img= mountainproject.com/v/10681…

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

Wiggins II is possibly the best 12- of its grade at the creek. Surprised more people don't do it, maybe because its a real 12- that does not care what size hands or fingers you have.

morkel · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 455
Mike Broad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 305

Wish you were here - the Wall
Columbian hitman - scarface
Mantel illness- scarface

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Lobotomy ("stunning offwidth")
Wiggins 1 (8 #4 Camalots)
Girls Just Wanna Have Guns (FA by a girl with amazing guns and better technique than you, also great name)
Dentist's Chair (Leubben offwidth, 50m of tight knees/calf locks)
Tooth Fairy (really only 10+, but you'll feel 5.11 afterwards)

Good points Rob. I'd much rather the spring break holds, er, hordes, stay in Red Rock and keep cleaning the Black Corridor into a someday quality crag.

Adam B · · CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 105

Top Sirloin. #1 Camalots forever in a corner. Excuse Station. #1 Camalots forever. No corner, just splitter. 2nd Meat Wall for Top Sirloin and Reservoir for Excuse Station.

Be careful with that smassey character. He likes em wide. Reeeeal wide!
Be careful with that Dillon character. There just might be a method to his madness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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