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Favorite crack climbs in the Southeast
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By Brandon.Phillips
From Double Springs, AL
Jul 27, 2013
El Classico V0
Last week I flailed my way up a 5.8 fist crack. Thus I realized that I don't really have any technique for jamming.

I live in Alabama and am willing to travel and jump on anything from 5.6 to 5.11. Specifically I want to put together a moderate tick list that will make me a better crack climber.

I know that comparatively they are few, but what are your favorite crack climbs in the Southeast?

I've also been hurting for partners, so if you want to get outside in the coming months give me a holler.

_ Brandon

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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jul 27, 2013
Edge of a Dream
You should head to the Asheville area. The following areas will have the most concentration of cracks with easy access:

mountainproject.com/v/north-si...
mountainproject.com/v/south-si...
mountainproject.com/v/cereal-b...
mountainproject.com/v/t-wall-e... (Chattanooga, Tenn. Area)

Don't get me wrong there are great cracks in many regions of the southeast, these, in my own opinion are some of the best for sure.

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By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Jul 27, 2013
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.
Brandon.Phillips wrote:
Last week I flailed my way up a 5.8 fist crack. Thus I realized that I don't really have any technique for jamming. I live in Alabama and am willing to travel and jump on anything from 5.6 to 5.11. Specifically I want to put together a moderate tick list that will make me a better crack climber.

I'm not worth a damn as a crack climber either, but these are some I've found to be good practice:

Nappy - 5.7 - T-Wall
Nutrasweet - 5.7 - T-Wall
Jay Walker - 5.7 - T-Wall
Sanscrit - 5.8 - T-Wall
Passages - 5.8 - T-Wall
Golden Locks - 5.8+ - T-Wall
Graham's Crack - 5.8 - Steele
Stepping Out - 5.7+ - Steele
Crack a Smile - 5.8 - Sand Rock
Faith - 5.8 - Sand Rock
Walking the Dog - 5.9- - Sand Rock
Pumpkin Patches - 5.9 - Jamestown

T-Wall is the southeast's Crack Climbing University; the routes I've listed are just some of the easier lines. When you're ready to up the ante, there's plenty more there that will have you huffing and puffing.

JL

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By ze_dirtbag
From TBD
Jul 27, 2013
cottonmouth
some of the best cracks i've been in were at the new....plus the rock quality will blow your mind

New Yosemite 5.9
Supercrack 5.9
Jaws 5.9
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9
The Entertainer 5.10-
Rapscallions Blues 5.10

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By Curtles
From Alabama
Jul 27, 2013
Knifeblade (5.8)crack at Griffin Falls.
Three stars!

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By nbrown
From western NC
Jul 27, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
I'll second the vote for the New (and I live just a few minutes from Looking Glass). The "cracks" at LG are great, but most of them are not pure crack climbs, though they probably are best granite cracks in the SE (off-limit area's not withstanding).

T wall is much closer to you, but IMO not nearly as extensive as some of the cliff's at the New (specifically Endless).

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By mattjohnson
From Laurens, SC
Jul 27, 2013
I'm glad I saw this thread because I have the same question. I'm fairly new to climbing, but here are my favorites that I've had the chance to get on:

Rumbling Bald- Fruit Loops(5.7), Shredded Wheat(5.11a), Frosted Flake (5.9+)
Looking Glass(North)- Invisible Airwaves (5.10c), Fear of Flying(5.9)
Looking Glass(South)- Second Coming(5.7), Gemini Crack(5.8)

Like nbrown said, the climbs at the South Side of Looking Glass are weird, and not really that much like crack climbs. The north side, however, is the place to be.

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 27, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.
Jamestown has some really good cracks. The odyssey, womb, sperm, and most everything at the south face of looking glass are good. Most of the really good ones in NC are closed. Sunset has a lot of cracks and is really good in the mornings this time of year. RJs Gold is one of my favorites.

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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
Jul 29, 2013
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'
Steele....Bird's Nest.
Griffin....Knife Crack
TWall....all that jive.
Sunset...Stan's!
Whitesides....Hard Up.
Linville....everything.
Dillard Canyon at LK....WIDE.

Lots of great crack routes.
Make a trip to Moab and you'll come back with solid rudimentary jamming skills.
Our eccentric cracks are much more fun, though.

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 30, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.
There are a few good ones in VA, if it qualifies as the southeast. Dobie Gillis, Strawberry Fields, OMG Dihedral, Bushwhack Crack, and The The. All in the same vicinity.

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By RForbus
From Hotlanta
Aug 1, 2013
As people have said. T Wall has a lot of solid crack climbs that will keep your busy for a couple weekends in a variety of grades. Lower Leda has some moderates cracks as well and an awesome 5 10 finger crack that's a lot of fun.

Rumbling Bald in NC has some great stuff: fruit loops, frosted wheat...

Knife blade at griffin falls is not to be missed.

The Red also has an abundance of great cracks but are spread all over the place. Muscle Beach crag has the bigger concentration. Roadside crag has a classic 5.7 called roadside attraction that's not to be missed. If your at the red one has to climb rock wars

Lost Wall has some pretty good stuff as well guzzler, booze and broads

How this helps ya out.

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By 5.samadhi
Aug 7, 2013
me
I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :D

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By Jaime M
From Chattanooga, TN
Aug 7, 2013
Much love for the rock
5.samadhi wrote:
I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :D


This summer has actually been pretty mild. At this point it seems like a climbing trip is more likely to be screwed because of rain than heat.

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By BrianWS
Aug 7, 2013
ze_dirtbag wrote:
some of the best cracks i've been in were at the new....plus the rock quality will blow your mind New Yosemite 5.9 Supercrack 5.9 Jaws 5.9 Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9 The Entertainer 5.10- Rapscallions Blues 5.10


The New has very few, albeit awesome, splitters. Most are more akin to face climbs that require a bit of crack technique here and there.

My favorite moderates (~5.10 and under, solid pro, etc.) thus far and aren't on the above list:

Fantasy 5.8
Supercrack 5.9
Tree Route 5.10-
Springboard 5.10-
Burning Calves 5.10

The Red has some real standouts, too. The cracks there tend to be more consistent, with more splitters than the New, IMO. Unfortunately, some of the absolute gems (including Roadside Attraction) are in closed or heavily restricted areas and cannot be accessed.

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By RForbus
From Hotlanta
Aug 8, 2013
BrianWS wrote:
The New has very few, albeit awesome, splitters. Most are more akin to face climbs that require a bit of crack technique here and there. My favorite moderates (~5.10 and under, solid pro, etc.) thus far and aren't on the above list: Fantasy 5.8 Supercrack 5.9 Tree Route 5.10- Springboard 5.10- Burning Calves 5.10 The Red has some real standouts, too. The cracks there tend to be more consistent, with more splitters than the New, IMO. Unfortunately, some of the absolute gems (including Roadside Attraction) are in closed or heavily restricted areas and cannot be accessed.


Why'd they close roadside crag? Such a shame, so many good routes there.

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By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Aug 15, 2013
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.
5.samadhi wrote:
I love how everybody is telling the guy to go to Twall in August :D

Read a little more carefully and you'll see that nobody's telling the OP to go to T-Wall or anywhere else at any particular time. He asked for a ticklist, and he got several.

JL

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Aug 15, 2013
El Chorro
RForbus wrote:
Why'd they close roadside crag? Such a shame, so many good routes there.


Because people kept fuckin' it up. Hanging hammocks in trees and letting their dogs shit everywhere.

It we're including the New, there is bridge buttress w/ Jaws and Zag and a bunch of other worth while cracks.

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By bernard
From birmingham, al
Aug 18, 2013
near trapps, Shawangunks, NY, 2008
Nothing at Suck Creek?

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By Clay Roberson
Aug 21, 2013
2nd pitch of Odyssey at Looking Glass is not moderate but fantastic crack.

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By RForbus
From Hotlanta
Aug 21, 2013
Ryan Williams wrote:
Because people kept fuckin' it up. Hanging hammocks in trees and letting their dogs shit everywhere. It we're including the New, there is bridge buttress w/ Jaws and Zag and a bunch of other worth while cracks.


Thats just sad. I hate when people don't respect places that are a privilege. Such ignorance.

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By 1up
From Wetumpka, Alabama
Aug 23, 2013
Brandon,

I had a very similar rescent experience with cracks and would like to get better at crack climbing to add another tool to the box. I just moved to montgomery but am willing to travel on weekends if you are looking for a partner or don't mind a third to your party. PM me if you are interested.

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By Todd Wells
Aug 23, 2013
Unfortunately Ryan's description applies to T-Wall on a crowded fall/winter/spring weekend.

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