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Favorite crack climbing shoes?!



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By Leeroy
Apr 1, 2012

The copperheads are NOT a thin crack shoe. I love em for easier stuff and they're awesome for .75 size and up but they SUCK at anything thinner. The extra toe rand material just doesn't work for finger cracks. Not the greatest edging shoe either. I can see why they were discontinued.

My next shoe is going to be a pair of comfortably sized Miura's.


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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Apr 1, 2012
Approach to the Bugaboos

As stated, before. Copperheads and moccasyms in my book are only good for easier cracks in the 0.75 size and bigger. They stink at edging.

for me I go with the women's muira's Since the men's version have too much in the toe box. I really liked the LS Barracuda's which were discontinued about 2 years ago. They did just about everything well. For finger cracks to ring locks, I like the LS women's Muira LV laceup's, TC .Pro's. For tight hands I and hands I like the moccasym's or Copperheads since you rarely need a ,technical shoe, since they rarely need a technical shoe, since I have a hard time thinking of a hard tight lands /hand that requires a technical shoe. For wider, I just use anything.


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By Cactus Moonshine
Apr 1, 2012
Carnegiea gigantea

SeamSeal them from the get-go. Shoo-goo or any other adhesive/sealant will do the trick, as well. Another option would be to have the rand rubber extended further up the shoe, when resoled, to move the point of weakness.


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By Eric D
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 1, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Scarpa Technos


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By Neil Rankin
Apr 1, 2012

You should try the La Sportiva Mythos. They are a very comfortable, high performance crack climbing shoe. Size them tight, even for cracks, because they stretch a lot.


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By Jeff Ludwig
From phoenix, Az
Apr 1, 2012

The top three recomended crack shoes so far:

TC Pros
Moccasyms
Miuras

I would add that the Boreal Ballets, Aces and Lasers, although old school ( but still available ) are all excellent crack climbing shoes.


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By bearbreeder
Apr 1, 2012

miuras after the first resole ... they stretch

or katanas myself ...

but its whatever fits yr foot, hopefully flat ....


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By mucci
From sf ca
Apr 2, 2012

Kaukulators.

The blue ones.

Let's see the steck/salathe go in those "Mocs"

Pfft.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Apr 2, 2012
Colonel Mustard

Brian Scoggins wrote:
I swear by my Katanas. Of course, if the crack is big enough that I go past the ball of my foot, I'm wearing JBs. Or approach shoes. The point is that if you're running into this problem often, its because you're consistently putting your foot too far in the crack anyway.


I'll second the Katana crowd. They've been a great all around shoe for me too. Sucks, mine are past the resole phase and I'm now wearing them into the grave on my TR solo circuit.


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By Gilles
From Arcata,CA
Apr 2, 2012
Suicide Rock

I'll second for Mythos. Definitely one of the best trad/crack shoes out there. And yes, size them 1/2 to full size down from you're normal shoe size due to the stretch.


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By Joshua Steenburgh
From Longmont, Colorado
Apr 2, 2012
Chocolate Corner.

Scarpa Force's have done alright by me. Although, if you're planning on jamming on splitters I would opt for the Super Moccs over the Forces.


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By nbrown
From western NC
Apr 2, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

Brett,

I've owned about 3-4 pairs of each:

As others have already said, the TC pros are great for cracks. They are also great for the technical face climbing not too far from you, down around the Brevard/Cashiers area (if they are snug). Unfortunately they are overly expensive and tend to come apart at the rands rather quickly. I've found that these stretch a good bit and size them the same as my old miura's (and I can wear them on long routes just fine).

The grandstones are also okay, providing better ankle protection than the TC's. However, once they break in they soften up quite a bit, even though they are stiff out of the box.

If you're serious about your footwork, then you'll definitely appreciate the fit of the TC pro's (provided they fit your feet okay).


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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2012

mucci wrote:
Kaukulators. The blue ones.


+1 on that comment. Boy, do I wish someone would make those again.


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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Apr 2, 2012
Approach to the Bugaboos

Eric and Lucie wrote:
+1 on that comment. Boy, do I wish someone would make those again.



Why? If its the ankle thing, tape them. I'll do OW's in Moccasyms and I suck at them, or LS Barracuda's.

As for Mytho's. Good for easy cracks like tight hands and hands (and larger), but if you have to edge, they suck like the Moccasyms.


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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Apr 2, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks

Different shoe for different place:

IC - Mythos
Vedauwoo - any high top
Yosemite - my good old Boreal Ace
Lumpy - Red Chillies


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By slim
Apr 3, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

for thin hands and smaller i like the katanas, although i hate that the buckle is on the 'wrong' side of the shoe (gets chewed up quickly). the old purple mad rock slippers are great for the price also.

for hands and up i kind of like the copperheads, cause i don't have to mess around with constantly spackling the top with shoe goo/whatever, and i don't have to mess around with replacing laces.

for OW, i have an old green pair of 5.10 altias that are about to die, and that will be a sad day. probably won't happen for a while though cause my shoulders are really starting to hate the OW's.


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By richie
From englewood, tn
Apr 3, 2012

i love my mocs for cracks. i used them when i went to moab and indian creek.


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By Fall Guy
Apr 3, 2012
modern man

can we get 3 pages on this highly abused topic?


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By Leeroy
Apr 3, 2012

mobley wrote:
can we get 3 pages on this highly abused topic?


Can we get an admin to interrupt this rational and mostly informative thread with their condescending opinion?

How's about you just keep your mouth shut if you don't have anything positive to add to the conversation? You're an admin for crissake. Act like one! With all the bullshit editing censoring, deleting and banning that's been going on around here the last couple months you'd think this kind of shit wouldn't be coming DIRECTLY from the admins of this site.

I guess guideline #1 only applies to non-admins eh?


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By Spri
Apr 3, 2012


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Apr 3, 2012

haha i'm with mobley on this one... i mean, another shoe thread... how about, get some fucking shoes and go climbing, when you figure out what you like and don't like... buy more shoes!


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Apr 3, 2012

plus mobley is the admin for CT... that's like... the bottom of the admin totem pole


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 3, 2012
OTL

www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1764741/best-crack-shoe-aga>>>

www.sierratradingpost.com/scarpa-techno-climbing-shoes-for-m>>>

code SDM60050 for "An Extra 35% OFF, 30% OFF or 25% OFF!" depends on order total


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By Leeroy
Apr 4, 2012

S Denny wrote:
haha i'm with mobley on this one... i mean, another shoe thread... how about, get some fucking shoes and go climbing, when you figure out what you like and don't like... buy more shoes!


Yeah, seriously! It's not like climbing shoes change constantly and climbers might want to discuss the experiences that other climbers have had with various different models. OMG! I mean WTF, do you think this is a climbing website or something!

Sorry that it bothers you that some people like to talk about shoes, and ropes, and springy clippy things.

I still think it's bullshit that an admin on this site is dropping snarky and totally inappropriate comments in threads that are about what MP claims to be about. Ya know, sharing info about climbing. Threads that were truckin along perfectly fine I might add until Senior Mobley decided to spray bomb it and make a very thinly veiled assertion that we're all a bunch of idiot noobs and insinuating that we were doing something wrong for sharing info about climbing shoes.

Thanks for that, much appreciated.


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By Fall Guy
Apr 4, 2012
modern man

S Denny wrote:
plus mobley is the admin for CT... that's like... the bottom of the admin totem pole


lol, I must disagree though, its only close to the bottom. I'd have to give MD, Iowa, Kansas and Ohio the bottom spots.

I'm sorry Leroy Jenkins, continue your super awesome discussion on your favorite shoes! I know you just joined up a month ago so maybe you dont know that you could dig up about 10 more threads on the best crack shoe if you really want more info. Just type 'crack shoes' in the little search boxy thingy in the upper right corner.


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