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Favorite crack climbing shoes?!
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Mar 31, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
Lets hear them, I am looking for less pain than climbing cracks in La Sportiva Muira lace-ups. What do you think? Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points
Mar 31, 2012
Mt. Agassiz
Ah bummer. I was going to say the Miuras...TC Pros have a good feel too. Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
787 points
Mar 31, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
You dont have pain when climbing cracks in Muira's? The "toe-knuckle" area? Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points
Mar 31, 2012
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag
I've been using TC Pros recently and definitely like them for cracks. Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Joined Jul 5, 2010
55 points
Mar 31, 2012
Hey there!
I found crack climbing in the Miuras to be painful as well. It should be noted that i'm terrible at climbing cracks, but the unbearable pain in my toes certainly didn't help. Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Joined Apr 19, 2010
2,005 points
Mar 31, 2012
Carnegiea gigantea
TC Pros are nice. Stiff sole makes them just as solid on the face as they are in the crack. Size up a half to a whole size from the Miuras. Cactus Moonshine
Joined Mar 24, 2012
5 points
Mar 31, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
Is there anything in particular people dislike about the TC Pros (other than price), or are they just a pretty great choice? Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points
Mar 31, 2012
Rewritten
Brett Sherman wrote:
Is there anything in particular people dislike about the TC Pros (other than price), or are they just a pretty great choice?


I love my TC pros and use them for 95% of my trad climbing. They are amazing at most cracks... plus they edge well and are comfortable to wear all day.

But, because their toe box is a bit blocky, they aren't particularly good for smaller cracks BD 0.5 and smaller... 0.75 for those with bigger feet. For the smaller cracks I use either my Mythos or Katanas (my toes are flat in my Katanas)

On a recent trip to the Creek, I used my TC Pros on a 0.75 crack... I climbed it, but ripped the toe box of the shoes (fortunately, only 8 bucks for a new toe cap).
Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 27, 2008
176 points
Mar 31, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Brett Sherman wrote:
You dont have pain when climbing cracks in Muira's? The "toe-knuckle" area?


That's a sizing issue. Crack and shoe size, specifically.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,359 points
Mar 31, 2012
Mathematical!
I've had success with a pair of pontas lace ups. They fit my feet well while still managing to be comfortable, and they have a stiff sole. Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
Mar 31, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
Old Custer wrote:
That's a sizing issue. Crack and shoe size, specifically.


Maybe it is a sizing issue. They arent very tight though. After Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday my feet were in sooo much pain. It could just be my lack of crack climbing experience and I just need to get used to the pain... So there is no particular reason why Muiras are bad for cracks? or is it like, "What! your climbing 8 pitch cracks in Muira's!"
Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points
Mar 31, 2012
I swear by Moccasyms, and I can't imagine climbing a multi-pitch route in Miuras. Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Mar 31, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
So, favorites so far are TC Pros and Moccasyms. Any other favorites? Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points
Mar 31, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Brett Sherman wrote:
Maybe it is a sizing issue. They arent very tight though. After Serenity Crack/Sons of Yesterday my feet were in sooo much pain. It could just be my lack of crack climbing experience and I just need to get used to the pain... So there is no particular reason why Muiras are bad for cracks? or is it like, "What! your climbing 8 pitch cracks in Muira's!"


Uhhh... the piton scars on Serenity Crack are pretty infamous for causing foot pain even in experienced crack climbers. One of the gear recs is ibuprofen.

Miuras are NOT bad for crack climbing. Then again, maybe for you they are. You gotta find your shoe.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,359 points
Mar 31, 2012
s
Im looking for crack shoes too. Had mocassyns last year and never really had a good fit with them the shoe offered no support and was either too tight and painful or too loose also feet were colored red from them some people said I was supposed to let them stretch but when I got a smaller size I just could not deal with the pain long enough. I still climbed in Moab in them and just for handsize cracks they worked well
I like Velcros for gym and sport but need an overall trad/ crack shoe the price does not matter as long as they work for me. I am going to give TC pros a shot though
$t0& 960
From Colorado
Joined Mar 10, 2012
56 points
Mar 31, 2012
just got a pair of grandstones and they are pretty sweet. moccs are also great mikeinvt
Joined Aug 27, 2010
48 points
Administrator
Mar 31, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-
I'm sure most people reading this know this already but stay away from velcro shoes for crack climbing. There is metal on the top of the shoe which makes jamming your shoe unbearable.
I like Moccs for a crack climbing shoe.
Dom
From New Brunswick Canada
Joined Dec 8, 2007
1,173 points
Mar 31, 2012
Dom wrote:
I'm sure most people reading this know this already but stay away from velcro shoes for crack climbing. There is metal on the top of the shoe which makes jamming your shoe unbearable. I like Moccs for a crack climbing shoe.


I swear by my Katanas. Of course, if the crack is big enough that I go past the ball of my foot, I'm wearing JBs. Or approach shoes. The point is that if you're running into this problem often, its because you're consistently putting your foot too far in the crack anyway.
Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,074 points
Mar 31, 2012
miuras, supermoccs, technos, tennies

that about covers crack climbing
S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Apr 1, 2012
Louis Eubank wrote:
I can't imagine climbing a multi-pitch route in Miuras.


It all depends on how they fit your foot, and how you size them. My Miuras, sized comfortably, are my go-to, super-comfortable shoe for long routes; I've even worn them in the Tetons. They can be a great shoe for granite crack climbing, providing much better edging than the Moccs while still having a narrow enough toe for thinnish cracks.

Meanwhile, I also have a pair of Miuras that are sized down so that they are tight; these are my go-to shoe for technical vertical sport routes. I also like the tighter shoes for really thin finger (tips) cracks on granite, where the crack is thin enough that you give up on getting decent toe jams, and instead are just micro-edging on the face. A route like Sentry Box, in Squamish, comes to mind.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Apr 1, 2012
Jon Moen wrote:
It all depends on how they fit your foot, and how you size them. My Miuras, sized comfortably, are my go-to, super-comfortable shoe for long routes; I've even worn them in the Tetons. They can be a great shoe for granite crack climbing, providing much better edging than the Moccs while still having a narrow enough toe for thinnish cracks. Meanwhile, I also have a pair of Miuras that are sized down so that they are tight; these are my go-to shoe for technical vertical sport routes. I also like the tighter shoes for really thin finger (tips) cracks on granite, where the crack is thin enough that you give up on getting decent toe jams, and instead are just micro-edging on the face. A route like Sentry Box, in Squamish, comes to mind.


I misspoke. I meant to say a multi-pitch route hand/fist jamming. They would be great on a tips crack.
Louis Eubank
From Portland, ME
Joined Nov 28, 2008
254 points
Apr 1, 2012
Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in...
I really love the 5.10 Copperheads. Pretty thin toe profile with lots of rubber on the top of the shoe too.

imageshack.us/photo/my-images/...
Drake Pregnall
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 23, 2011
1,071 points
Apr 1, 2012
La sportive cobra, like a moc and a miura had a liitle orange snake baby. Xan Calonne
From Pasadena, Ca
Joined Mar 25, 2010
19 points
Apr 1, 2012
TC Pro's are great for longer days, and work nicely in larger finger cracks and up. Ankle protection makes them nice in wider ranges, too. They're also pretty good on edges.

My other pair are copperheads. I'll use them for shorter climbs, and more bouldery pitches and thinner cracks. Definitely not as comfortable, though. After using the TC Pro's, you really get to appreciate the padding compared to many other shoes.

The supermocs look pretty nice, too, but like the mocs, my feet are kind of between sizes.

The only downside to the TC's, as stated, is the price. Other than that, they're gold.
Wagreich
From Long Beach, CA
Joined Apr 29, 2011
7 points
Apr 1, 2012
The route in it's entirety.
To add some advice if you end up getting the TC Pros.

Seam Seal the rand from the toes on back to about your arch and equivalent on the outside of the foot. The design of the rand tends to delam slightly, but with some Seam Seal you'll be fine.
Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
563 points
Apr 1, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background
Greg G wrote:
To add some advice if you end up getting the TC Pros. Seam Seal the rand from the toes on back to about your arch and equivalent on the outside of the foot. The design of the rand tends to delam slightly, but with some Seam Seal you'll be fine.



Do you seam seal them right off the bat? Or when they begin to delaminate?

I just went to the store and put on a pair of TC Pros, they do feel damn good. But I kinda want to try on those copperheads too because it looks like they have some real good rubber up high on the toes. Thanks for your help everybody.

-Brett
Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Joined May 12, 2008
48 points


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