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This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).
From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Stradivarius 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad
Hang A Louie 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Fender Strat 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Perched 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Crash Landing 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Over the Top 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Baby Duck 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Hill's Little Hill 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Lalaland 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Sly Little Fart Blaster 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Desert Storm 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Crybaby 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Faulty Tower
Crybaby 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower
This is a classic Herbert rig that follows a seam up an immaculate wall. The crux comes early and is just a few moves long (I’d guess about V4 or 5). If you boulder or know how to campus it’s bound to feel easy. But, you still have to have enough fitness to romp through some fun 5.11 at the top. Great route; very striking. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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