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Faulty Tower
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Duck 
Crash Landing 
Crybaby 
Desert Storm 
Double Take 
Fender Strat 
Finger Food 
Forkash & Riches 
From Chocolate to Chossman 
From Chocolate to Morphine 
Lalaland 
Perched 
Sly Little Fart Blaster 
Solito 
Stradivarius 
What's Its Face 
Unsorted Routes:

Faulty Tower 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 1, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


approaching the roof

Description 

This east facing wall, a couple of minutes up river from Warm Up Wall is generally shady and has worthwhile climbs in a wide range of grades. The two must do climbs are the partnered stretcher hard 11s, Lalaland and From Chocolate to Morphine which seem to be developing a following. If you're looking to get off the beaten path without having to go to much trouble, FT's left side has an upper tier whose routes see little traffic (approach pitch required).


Getting There 

From where the Central Gully approach meets the road, walk north/upriver. The first significant cliff on the west side is Faulty Towers.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Faulty Tower:
Stradivarius   5.8     Trad   
Fender Strat   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Perched   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Crash Landing   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Baby Duck   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Lalaland   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Sly Little Fart Blaster   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   
From Chocolate to Morphine   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Desert Storm   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Crybaby   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Faulty Tower

Featured Route For Faulty Tower
moving through the crux traverse

Perched 5.10d  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower
A great route. 4th class up to the first bolt, pull a roof, and eek up the airy arête. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Comments on Faulty Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 15, 2012

The route order for this area is pretty butchered.

From left to right:

Solito ** 10c 5 bolts to anchors

For the following 3, approach via easy 5th class to ledge:

Baby Duck *** 11b 6 bolts to anchors
Free Falling *** 11d 6 bolts to anchors
Open Project ? 1 bolt

Forkash and Riches ** 12a 5 bolts to anchors
Finger Food * 10d 4 bolts to anchors
Fender Strat **** 10a 9 bolts to anchors
Sly Little Fart Blaster 11d 8 bolts to anchors
Stradivarius **** 8 3 bolts, gear to 2.5" to anchors

Approach via Fender Strat or Stradivarius:

Desert Storm **** 12a 6 bolts to anchors

Slot Machine * 10a 2 bolts, gear to 2" to rap station
Lalaland ***** 11c 12 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Morph. ***** 11d 13 bolts to anchors
Choc. to Choss. ** 9 6 bolts to anchors
Ballet Recital poor 10b Gear to 3.5" to one bolt anchor
Crybaby **** 12c 7 bolts to anchors
Desire ** 13a 4 bolts, stick clip, anchors
Crash Landing *** 11a 5 bolts to anchors
Project Cont. of Crash Landing, 5 bolts
Perched **** 10d 9 bolts to anchors
What's its Face *** 10b 7 bolts to anchors
Double Take * 8 6 bolts, sporty, anchors

Please, those of you who have the time, re-sort the route accordingly. Any that I add, I will place in the best order I can.

Thanks!
Kyle T