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Rigid Designator Amphitheatre
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Aberrant Behavior aka LoweKey Lunacy 
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Fatman and Robin 
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Unsorted Routes:

Fatman and Robin 

M9

   
Type:  Mixed, 2 pitches
Consensus: M8 [details]
FA: P1: Pete Takeda, P2: Ryan Nelson
Season: Mid Winter
Page Views: 1,501
Submitted By: Daniel Battin on Jan 21, 2008

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Brett almost onsighted it on his third try (that n...

Description 

This route starts steep then relents to a mild traverse to good ice. After some stemming between rock and ice there is a short roof which leads to more stemming between rock and a more delicate hanging ice. At the top of the ice and after the third small overhang lies the slings.

Per RYAN NELSON, pitch 2:

Pete Takeda originally bolted this line, as a 2nd pitch to finish Fatman and Robin. I don't think it sees much traffic as it is mainly rock drytooling. Sustained, cool if you have done Vail's other mixed offerings. It is 70 feet and is protected by bolts.


Location 

This is the last mixed line at the far right in the Amphitheater.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 med screws, 2 bolts and an old piton, 1 rusted bolt that can be backed up with a small cam (the first and second bolts have loose hangers, and the last bolt is quite rusted).



Photos of Fatman and Robin Slideshow Add Photo
Getting to blue gold and a rest.
Getting to blue gold and a rest.
Grunting up the evility on a warm, late-winter day. The opening moves of Fatman. THANK YOU, Mr. Stickclip!
Grunting up the evility on a warm, late-winter day...
Comments on Fatman and Robin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Battin
From: Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Jan 22, 2008

That's right Brett! Stay positive.
Next time will be my fifth on-sight attempt.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 2, 2010

True story:

Up walks me and Tony Angelis to the Designator Amphitheater. We brought this kid with us, right? Sam. Sam's NEVER been mixed climbing, right? ONLY done his first TR ice climbing the week before.

So we're walking around, asking the Vail regulars what might be good M line for a rookie like Sam. Sam looks over at Fatman and says, "Hey, we should do THAT!" He trots over and starts flakin' rope and setting out his POS ice tools, a pair of awful leash-less BD Reactors he borrowed from Summit Canyon. Meanwhile all the wide-eyed, head-shaking hard men are grumblin', "This guy's gonna die...what a prick."

It's right about the time that Sam reaches the very top of the first ice pillar, unprotected--this after just FLOATING the opening cave moves--that all of us watching, entranced, slack-jawed, stupefied, start to think: "Hey wait-a-minute...mortals can't do THAT!"

Then, with a goofy smile, Sam shouts down from what would easily be a groundfall smack-down: "Hummm...say. I should probably set a screw or something. How do I do that?"

He goes on, of course, to smoke Fatman and a handful of other Vail testpieces that day not even THINKING of falling.

It was only later that I found out from Tony that Sam is Sam Elias, 5.14 freakboy whose face is plastered all over the latest Rifle Mountain Park guide. And so it came to pass that I was allowed to belay one of the gods.

Which was ALMOST as cool as when Ines Papert used my laptop to phone home. That I should be so lucky....

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 4, 2010

Great story.

By Jesse Huey
Feb 10, 2012

Probably one of the best routes in the amphitheater because it has ICE!!!!

The last bolt is "special."

DO IT!