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Area 37
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Fatigue 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Nat Gustafson and Jason Halladay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 26, 2012

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Description 

Fatigue is the extension/second pitch to the fun Cyclic Loader route following a blunt arete to the top of the formation. Despite a 20' bit of less-than-quality rock on the 100' pitch, it's still a very fun pitch to the top of the 150' wall. The exposure, position and views more than make up for the short bit of dubious rock.

Climb Cyclic Loader to its anchors. Rest up and hope your muscles aren't feeling the effects of cyclic loading. When rested, climb lichen-encrusted rock past a couple of bolts to some cool holes and the first crux bulge. Pull the bulge and head directly into the next bulge. Bust through the second bulge and into the lesser quality rock for about 20 feet. Test your muscles' strength by working through the third and final crux of the pitch by snatching a big flake. Enjoy easier moves on the great rock of the nicely exposed blunt arete to the top.

The Cyclic Loader/Fatigue link-up is best done as one long 150' pitch but can easily be done as two pitches if desired.

Extra Stuff 

This is a new route with minimal cleaning so far. For the time being, it's best to take a sense of adventure, a cautious attitude, a helmet and a wire brush on this pitch.
Seriously, there may be loose stuff we didn't find or clean so if it looks suspect, treat it with caution.

Location 

Continues straight up from the top of Cyclic Loader

Protection 

12(?) bolts on the extension. Take 22 quickdraws when linking this pitch with Cyclic Loader. Long slings on a few bolts will help reduce rope drag.
Rap anchor at the top of the formation but note the length--two ropes are required to rap from the top to the ground. It is possible to rap from the top anchors to the anchors at the top of Cyclic Loader with a 60m rope, with stretch, and then rap Cyclic Loader. Tie knots in the ends of your rope!

You can also top out and walk off to the west. This involves a short 4th class downclimb from the top of the formation.


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By skelldify
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The protection part of this route description is a little inaccurate. The route takes 22 draws if you put one on the anchor of cyclic loader, and two on the anchor of fatigue. I came up short by a few and had to back-clean.

It'd be good to bring a couple long draws. I had some SERIOUS rope drag.

With a 70m rope you can just barely lower back to the anchor of cyclic loader.

This is a great route, but there is a little bit of loose stuff, and a bit of moss and dirt. If it got more traffic it could be really good.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 20, 2014

Thanks for the clarification on the quickdraw numbers. I've modified the Protection information accordingly. it's also good to know that with a 70m rope you can lower down to the anchors at the top of Cyclic Loader.