Fathom Escape Hatch
|700 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
This is a fun and varied route: slab, aid with mandatory free, and water groove. Two ring anchors at each belay.
P1 (5.9) 160' Climb up and right passing bolts and natural protection. You will find a bit of a runout to the first bolt on the easy slab, some natural gear out right, and then a couple bolts by the crux moves reaching the belay.
P2 (5.10) 185' Climb left off of the belay via somewhat of a mantle move (if my memory serves me correctly), then straight up passing bolts. When the bolts run out you will find natural protection. Stay to the left of the mossy ledge, find a cam (#3 C4) above the mossy area, and pull the few moves up to the anchor and ledge.
P3 (5.9) 100' Follow the crack to its top, step up onto the slab, then climb up and right passing protection bolts to the anchor beneath the awesome next pitch.
P4 (5.11 A2) Free & aid your way up this imposing pitch. The pitch has been led at 5.11 C2. Bolts, rivets, natural protection. I found a large DMM offset nut to be essential in two places aiding over the bulge (back clean it after you clip a bolt above) The hard mandatory free climbing is just a bit of stemming as seen in the picture. Above that you will find some steep jugs, then a few more moves of Aid to reach the exit mantle. This is the most awesome mantle I have had to perform at Laurel. If it were a boulder problem, Id say maybe V4?
P5 (5.10 A0) Stem up to & A0 from a bolt. Climb the groove past bolts and natural protection. This pitch really is fun, the A0 move is no gimme, even with the bolt, it is quite tricky and fun to stand up into the scoop. The rest of the pitch is awesome LK grooving in a phenomenal position on the head-wall.
P6 (5.10) 55' Climb the groove past bolts.
P7 (5.10) Continue up the groove passing bolts and natural protection.
Rap the route
Start right of "Cruising With the Top Down/Fathom ALT start" & the 1972/3 Fulton/Mitchell attempt & left of the high pine tree where Fathom Direct begins.
(2) 60M ropes
(2) 000 C3 - .75 C4 (orange alien and green yellow offset alien helpful)
(1) #1 C4 - #4 C4
(1) large offset nuts
(1) rps/offset brass nuts (optional)
(2) Rivet Hangers
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo
|Comments on Fathom Escape Hatch
From: western NC
Dec 31, 2012
Thanks for posting Brad! I always wondered about that groove. You think this thing will ever go all free?
Dec 31, 2012
Pitch 4 may go free...it could be 5.13+ or even 5.14?? I tried to place the protection bolts for the aid and the potential free climber. Double digit bouldering from the apron leads to slopers (which may not go), to stemming, to a rest, then 5.12 climbing leads into another hard (maybe 5.13-) crux getting to the hard exiting mantle. The A0 move on the fifth pitch might go free. I would compare it to stemming up the inside of an hourglass. A slabby free variation might go left around this move, if it is impossible to free climb. I hope someone can free climb this one day!
|By burlap submariner|
Jan 24, 2013
Looks fucking awesome!!!! nice style too, will be a classic free direct when it goes! great work guys.