Easier climbing to start the 4th pitch, which link...
Amazing, sustained face climbing. Rock steepens as you get higher, but it becomes a little more featured. End on fathom after headwall. I did the first pitch of begoon-offenbacher rather than the original first pitch of fathom direct (so this is what i am describing below). P1: follow slabby face up past a few bolts and a couple of gear placements up high to anchors, 5.10- P2: follow dike up and right past a couple bolts and then go up to another anchor P3-P4: wander up water groove looking for pro P5: The wall steepens a little and this is some sweet climbing P6-P8: finish on fathom
Look for water groove that intersects with the fathom headwall 500 feet up. Start climbing the bolted line in groove to the left for one variation or for the original variation, start uphill and left .
up to #2 camalot. tricams were helpful in at least one spot. Some key nut placements. Few placements on most pitches. Double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. I gave it an R because tricky moves are often poorly protected and a fall on the runout, featured terrain could be very nasty.
By GWB Jan 16, 2012 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b R
The Have and Not Need 1st pitch makes a great entrance to Fathom Direct. 5 bolts and some gear if you need it lead to the first belay anchor. The traverse for the second pitch would be much easier if not covered with ice. Beware starting early in the winter. It didn't block the forward progress just made it more fun.
Third pitch has 3 bolts and some not so great gear placements. Quite a runout between the second and third bolt. Fourth pitch only had 1 bolt that we could find but it's in a great spot. Fifth pitch is the crux and the bolts are well spaced for the harder climbing. Movement to the last bolt is spicy. This pitch didn't feel much harder than the 1st of Have and Not Need. Lots of fun and seems to be dry for the most part but the upper original Fathom crux will likely be wet if the water is running.