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 ADVANCED
The Matron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Ridge T 
Father Knows Best T,S 
North Crack T 
North Face T 
North Face Right T 
Pasta Man T 
Quiche on a Leash T 
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 
Serpentine Dreams S 
South Face T 
Sunday Comix T,TR 
Warlocks T 
West Face T,TR 

Father Knows Best 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alison Sheets and Mark Hirt, 1980s
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Joseffa Meir high up in the colorful stripes while...

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  • Description 

    This route is so-so. It is an interesting diversion at the Matron but not a destination. There are some really good moves on some pretty poor rock in at least one spot. I scraped off a lot of grit and lichen, and my partner broke off one hand hold. Were the route on better stone, it would be a 2+ star route. As it is, it is a 2- star.

    This climb starts on the high end of the North Face, just a short distance East of the West Face and the slab routes there. Soul Survivor boulders up a flake to an initial bolt, goes up and right (reachy) to a big undercling flake, then through the roof left (11b, reachy) or right to underclings and a heel hook (11d, gut-buster). The rock on chalked flake of the right option is crumbly, and grit was falling out of the heel hooks I used. The left way is a "will my foot really stick to that?" move with a hidden jug to match hands on at the lip.

    Get to the first bolt (5.9-) to the roof (5.10b) through the roof (11b) and then go up and left to gain a crack which goes up and right (runout of 1-1.5" gear, 5.8) to the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt climb 5.10 and 5.11- moves to the top of the buttress (lichens, crumbing rock in a few places) where you can clip 2 eye-bolts on the top, just at the W. Face intersection. Long slings make a smooth TR possible. If not using slings, save your rope and the bolts, and rap, don't lower off.

    Protection 

    6 draws + a set for the top anchors. 1-1.5" pro with a sling can protect the long distance (relatively easy, maybe 5.8) between the second bolt and the third. Otherwise 5.8 S.
    It would be easy enough to TR this route from the anchors above, accessed from a rap after another route to the top.


    Photos of Father Knows Best Slideshow Add Photo
    Joseffa Meir right in the deceptively difficult cr...
    Joseffa Meir right in the deceptively difficult cr...

    Comments on Father Knows Best Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 14, 2004

    Easy to TR from rap anchor.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 16, 2004

    This sounds more like a description of "Father Knows Best;" see comments under North Face of the Matron.