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The Matron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
East Ridge T 
Father Knows Best T,S 
North Crack T 
North Face T 
North Face Right T 
Pasta Man T 
Quiche on a Leash T 
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 
South Face T 
Sunday Comix T,TR 
Warlocks T 
West Face T,TR 

Father Knows Best 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alison Sheets and Mark Hirt, 1980s
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 19, 2003

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Joseffa Meir high up in the colorful stripes while...
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  • Description 

    This route is so-so. It is an interesting diversion at the Matron but not a destination. There are some really good moves on some pretty poor rock in at least one spot. I scraped off a lot of grit and lichen, and my partner broke off one hand hold. Were the route on better stone, it would be a 2+ star route. As it is, it is a 2- star.

    This climb starts on the high end of the North Face, just a short distance East of the West Face and the slab routes there. Soul Survivor boulders up a flake to an initial bolt, goes up and right (reachy) to a big undercling flake, then through the roof left (11b, reachy) or right to underclings and a heel hook (11d, gut-buster). The rock on chalked flake of the right option is crumbly, and grit was falling out of the heel hooks I used. The left way is a "will my foot really stick to that?" move with a hidden jug to match hands on at the lip.

    Get to the first bolt (5.9-) to the roof (5.10b) through the roof (11b) and then go up and left to gain a crack which goes up and right (runout of 1-1.5" gear, 5.8) to the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt climb 5.10 and 5.11- moves to the top of the buttress (lichens, crumbing rock in a few places) where you can clip 2 eye-bolts on the top, just at the W. Face intersection. Long slings make a smooth TR possible. If not using slings, save your rope and the bolts, and rap, don't lower off.


    Protection 

    6 draws + a set for the top anchors. 1-1.5" pro with a sling can protect the long distance (relatively easy, maybe 5.8) between the second bolt and the third. Otherwise 5.8 S.
    It would be easy enough to TR this route from the anchors above, accessed from a rap after another route to the top.



    Photos of Father Knows Best Slideshow Add Photo
    Joseffa Meir right in the deceptively difficult crux of 'Father Knows Best (5.11)' on the cool North face of The Matron. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
    Joseffa Meir right in the deceptively difficult cr...
    Comments on Father Knows Best Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 14, 2004

    Easy to TR from rap anchor.

    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 16, 2004

    This sounds more like a description of "Father Knows Best;" see comments under North Face of the Matron.

    By dlight
    Oct 23, 2012

    Alison Sheets and Mark Hirt put this route up in the '80s prior to the bolting ban. It is a great route and is well worth seeking out!

    It is mostly independent of Charlie Fowler's route Soul Survivor. Soul Survivor starts to the left and makes a rising traverse which crosses Father Knows Best to finish on the arete. Soul Survivor is an extremely bold lead with little or no protection and you should have no fear as the proximity of the FKB bolts will not help to reduce your commitment!