Fatal Mistake 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | stevecurtis on Mar 30, 2008 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb Pink elephants and rappel in. Two long rappels bring you to a wedged block with slings. Back these up in the crack above.
The start is the crux. 5.12 fingers-extremely painful. Above the crack slowly eases before a wide section. Second pitch, 5.10 fists to a stance with an ankle breaking ledge. Place gear high, bust through 5.11 fingers, and continue to top.
Location The start to pink elephants is extremely circuitous. Head a long ways right before you head up. Poison Oak!!
Protection Standard rack with 1-2 fist size and possibly one #4 camalot. No fixed anchors.
| Comments on Fatal Mistake |
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 31, 2008
| I remember being lowered to the slings (p1 Fatal Mistake) from the top of Pink Dream for purpose of top rope p2 and 3 of Fatal Mistake.
It was almost stretch of 70 M rope. The book said that pitch from the sling (p2) is 5.10 and next (p3) 11a. I started climbing from the slings and instantly realize that it is not 5.10. Climbed probably 10-12 feet , fall and was back to the slings because of rope elongation. And again, and again. 10 feet up - down. I felt it is 5.11, 5.11+ which is above my TR ability. I did not take any gear with me to make my top roping easier , I even did not have the slings, so I can not aid this section. After trying 5-6 times I was really scared that it is going to be very stupid/shameful rescue of me. "Fatal Mistake" - this is a name. My wife at the top can not hear me, but she realized what was going on and gave me all possible tension from above. I finally made it, and after that crux 10-15 feet above the slings - the rest 200 feet of Fatal mistake - was a curser |
By Josh Janes
Oct 5, 2008
| We rapped from the top of Pink Dream with a single 70m rope and made it to a good belay stance on a foot ledge. We could sling a flake and use a wide piece for an anchor. If you climb up from here, the climbing is 5.10 with a short 5.11a section.
From here we fixed our second line and rapped down on a single line (a doubled over 70m rope would not reach -- this rap was more like 45 meters long) to slings wrapped around a flake: a natural place to stop. Below this point the crack becomes a seam. Climbing up from here felt like 5.11+ to me. It would probably be easier if the rock wasn't covered in lichen and if I had taped my fingers (the climbing is extremely painful). After about 20-30' the climbing eases off a lot and becomes beautiful 5.10 hands. |
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