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Elephant Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair 
Crack of Doom 
Crack of Redemption 
Elephant Talk 
Fatal Mistake 
Fun Terminal 
Hocus Pocus 
Hundredth Monkey, The 
Left Guru Crack 
Lost Error 
Pink Dream 
Pink Elephant 
Plumb Line 
Reality Check 
Right Guru Crack 
Straight Error 
Wicked Gravity 
Worst Error, Left 
Worst Error, Right 

Fatal Mistake 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
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Submitted By: stevecurtis on Mar 30, 2008
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Climb Pink elephants and rappel in. Two long rappels bring you to a wedged block with slings. Back these up in the crack above.

The start is the crux. 5.12 fingers-extremely painful. Above the crack slowly eases before a wide section. Second pitch, 5.10 fists to a stance with an ankle breaking ledge. Place gear high, bust through 5.11 fingers, and continue to top.


The start to pink elephants is extremely circuitous. Head a long ways right before you head up. Poison Oak!!


Standard rack with 1-2 fist size and possibly one #4 camalot. No fixed anchors.

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 31, 2008

I remember being lowered to the slings (p1 Fatal Mistake) from the top of Pink Dream for purpose of top rope p2 and 3 of Fatal Mistake.
It was almost stretch of 70 M rope. The book said that pitch from the sling (p2) is 5.10 and next (p3) 11a. I started climbing from the slings and instantly realize that it is not 5.10. Climbed probably 10-12 feet , fall and was back to the slings because of rope elongation. And again, and again. 10 feet up - down. I felt it is 5.11, 5.11+ which is above my TR ability. I did not take any gear with me to make my top roping easier , I even did not have the slings, so I can not aid this section. After trying 5-6 times I was really scared that it is going to be very stupid/shameful rescue of me. "Fatal Mistake" - this is a name. My wife at the top can not hear me, but she realized what was going on and gave me all possible tension from above. I finally made it, and after that crux 10-15 feet above the slings - the rest 200 feet of Fatal mistake - was a curser

By Josh Janes
Oct 5, 2008

We rapped from the top of Pink Dream with a single 70m rope and made it to a good belay stance on a foot ledge. We could sling a flake and use a wide piece for an anchor. If you climb up from here, the climbing is 5.10 with a short 5.11a section.

From here we fixed our second line and rapped down on a single line (a doubled over 70m rope would not reach -- this rap was more like 45 meters long) to slings wrapped around a flake: a natural place to stop. Below this point the crack becomes a seam. Climbing up from here felt like 5.11+ to me. It would probably be easier if the rock wasn't covered in lichen and if I had taped my fingers (the climbing is extremely painful). After about 20-30' the climbing eases off a lot and becomes beautiful 5.10 hands.