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 ADVANCED
MBA Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenalyzer T 
Bad Manners T 
Brain Cloud aka Shadow Arete S,TR 
Brain Dead Ted TR 
Broken Arrow S,TR 
Cliff Hanger S 
Dan's Line aka Restless Heart S 
Dan's Manners S 
Fatal Attraction T 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Good Man Dan S 
How Rebolting aka Butt Crack T 
Left Behind T 
Major Bolt Achievement (MBA) S 
Mandela aka Leaning Pillar T 
Milk Dud, The T 
Mini Me S 
Minor Trad Achievement T 
Mournful Mullet T 
Nader T 
No Manners aka Hodat T 
Oblivious T,TR 
Over The Top aka Unknown bolt line S 
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers) T,TR 
Shark Attack! or Shark Infested Waters T 
Sick Minds Think Alike T 
Spike S 
Stoney Middleton T 
Table Manners S 
Twenty Something Arete T 
Wazup? aka Buchanan T 

Fatal Attraction 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Mar 17, 2001

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Description 

WARNING: THIS PROBLEM WILL KILL YOU IF YOU SCREW UP! To the right of Adrenalyzer is a leaning obelisk sitting on a ledge. It looks like a good push on the backside will launch it into the houses down the hill. On the overhanging south side is a line of jugs separated by big reaches. The thought of climbing those jugs raises the spectre of pulling the obelisk over on top of yourself and being crushed like a bug. The line is obvious, compelling and terrifying. Even if the obelisk stays put, the moves are hard and committing, the ground a long way away from the crux (at the top), and the landing nonexistent as the hillside drops away. This is no place for posers or wannabees. The rush of pulling over the top is indescribable, but the consequences of failure will leave you puking in the bushes. My advice: JUST SAY NO!


Protection 

Mental health counseling.



Comments on Fatal Attraction Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Feb 16, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Alan, have you ever thought about a career in writing? This is some amazing prose. I like the part about leaving a person puking after climbing it. I most likely would have walked on by this thing if not for your inticing route description. Despite that, I am 6' tall and could grab the top of the block from the opening pedestal. I thought it could be no harder than V0 for tall people and V1 if you are under 5.5 and not nearly as dangerous or scary as indicated from the description. The block is not in danger of tipping over.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X

Not that hard, not that dangerous. I did it based on the book description (Haas) rather than this one. I thought it was low 5.10, if that. It's pretty positive holds and not tricky. Short people might have a different experience.