Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Gnome Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Problem 
Fat Freddy's Crack T 
Fat Monkey's Birthday T 
Leave My Monkey Alone T 

Fat Monkey's Birthday 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Jeff Buhl on May 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Bill - completing the crux of the first pitch.

Description 

Fat Monkey's Birthday combines the first pitch of 'Fat Head' and the second pitch of 'Leave my monkey alone'. Take the obvious crack line from the lower face up through the upper roof.

Pitch 1: Follow the right trending flake / crack up through the lower face to the "cave". From here you can either exit through a hole in the back of the cave or continue on to pitch 2. There is a bit of lichen on the lower part and the rock gets a bit granular towards the top of this pitch (A little more traffic and it will clean up nicely).

Pitch 2: Place some gear and commit to solid yet strenuous hand jams out and over the roof.


Protection 

Bring a rack of cams including 1xgreen and yellow aliens, and camalots from #.75-#4. Perhaps an extra #1,#2, and #3 camalot to account for anchors.



Comments on Fat Monkey's Birthday Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 26, 2004

As I commented under the rock. Be careful with your foot placements pulling the roof. Tha hand jams are great, but I had multiple foot holds just pop right off while pulling around. Fun route.