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Fat guys who climb hard.
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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Aug 21, 2012
Tough Mantle Problem.  Haven't sent yet...

Great post Greg.

I love climbing no matter the grade, but this year is the first year I have actually gotten weaker. I don't care how much better I get each year, I just want to get better. Luckily there's still a few months left in 2012.


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 21, 2012
mountainlion

Greg it has been to long brother! Where have you been? Your Halloween costume is still my favorite (tried to dig up a climbing photo of you wearing this but no luck:(

I knew I recognized you from somewhere Greg!
I knew I recognized you from somewhere Greg!


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 21, 2012
mountainlion

I think I hauled you up this one Greg if I'm not mistaken?? Remember Sidewinder in Jtree me freezing at the top while you struggled up with your ample girth keeping you warm. First and last time I used a 3 to 1 z
but I'm glad I knew how!!

Eric Coffman leading "sidewinder" 5.10b joshua tree
Eric Coffman leading "sidewinder" 5.10b joshua tree


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By Greg D
From Here
Aug 21, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Eric Coffman wrote:
I think I hauled you up this one Greg if I'm not mistaken?? Remember Sidewinder in Jtree me freezing at the top while you struggled up with your ample girth keeping you warm. First and last time I used a 3 to 1 z but I'm glad I knew how!!


Here it is bitch. Thanks for hauling my fast ass.

Happy Halloween
Happy Halloween


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 21, 2012
mountainlion

Grand props on the "Irish Wench" climbing costume!


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Aug 21, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

I'm roughly 190-200 and have climbed mid-11's before I tore my meniscus, but I can definitely climb harder than that, and will once I'm fully recovered. I don't think I've been below 190 since I started climbing 2-3 years ago.

I'm mostly muscle and don't think I could drop below 185 without some serious re-working, so I train harder for climbing :)


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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Aug 21, 2012
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-failure two bolts later.

chufftard wrote:
lmao! weight doesn't matter nearly as much as percentage body fat. you can be 6'2" and weigh over 200' and climb really hard (Loskot, Nalle) if you have a lot of muscle.


Every climber I've ever met has seemed way smaller in person than on film. 6'2 and 200lbs would look like a giant next to the typical pro climber. I'd like to know where you're getting these numbers!

Here are two examples that are documented:

Nick Duttle - 5'11 3/4" and 169-175lbs, or in another article, 175-180.
www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/nick-duttle-dont-sweat-it
edition.pagesuite-professional.co.uk/launch.aspx?referral=ot>>>

Nick sent Esperanza (V14 crimps) at that weight, which I think is incredibly impressive.

Toni Lamprecht:
188cm (6'2")
80-90kg (176-200 lbs)
www.arcteryx.com/Athlete.aspx?EN/ToniLamprecht


For reference...
Adam Ondra (5'11.5", 130lbs)
www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm

Magnus Midtboe (looks large-ish in videos): (5'8.5", 150lbs)
www.magnusmidtboe.com/about-me/


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Stabby

Two points:
OP is talking about 190 - 200 lbs, AND climbing .13+
Doing anything at or under 180 does not qualify.
Being 190 - 200 and climbing 5.11 does not either.
Steve Petro and John Long both climbed hard and weighed over 190, but I'm not sure about the .13+ part. Do not know them personally.

I'm surprised my handicap idea didn't get some run. If I pull down a hard crux, I required a significantly higher amount of strength to do that than most of you flyweights.


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By Tevis Blom
Aug 21, 2012

I have always been around 200. Never broke into 5.12, although I tried for a while. I have seen bigger guys climb harder, but I think genetics comes into play with finger and shoulder strength. Pulled tendons suck... Never seen someone my size pull 5.13 except on video.
Here is me failing on 11d. Every time I got close I would end up with 'overuse injuries'.

At hueco playing on the jug routes.


Never pulled harder than v4 either, and it was rare to see someone my size climbing at all. It does occur though. There is some Boulder guy that is huge, and climbs barefoot out there really hard. forget his name though. It can happen, but one needs exceptionally strong joints and resting skills.
Really hard climbing is for skinny little people that starve themselves!

sheik yer bouti
sheik yer bouti


hueco1
hueco1


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 21, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

is 5.11 even a warmup for people who climb hard? probably not.


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By shotwell
Aug 21, 2012

I'm 6' and fluctuate between 182 and 190. I've climbed v8 at my 'Christmas weight,' though my best sends tend to happen when I'm a little lighter.

That being said, v7+ and 5.13+ are moderate for bouldering and sport climbing. No one is going to become famous for climbing these grades.


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By John Duffield
Aug 21, 2012
ski

But how would that be affected by age? A clyesdale/athena AND over 60? My suspicion would be the incidence of injury would be higher.


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By Unassigned User
Aug 21, 2012

I have TR'ed a 5.10 at 210lbs. I like El Tigre's idea, you scrawny little sportos don't have a clue what it is like pulling 210lbs through a roof section.

Now I have dropped a bit of weight, down to 185. Still can't climb 5.13. But I climb hard in my head!


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By SteveBechtel
Aug 21, 2012

El Tigre wrote:
Two points: OP is talking about 190 - 200 lbs, AND climbing .13+ Doing anything at or under 180 does not qualify. Being 190 - 200 and climbing 5.11 does not either. Steve Petro and John Long both climbed hard and weighed over 190, but I'm not sure about the .13+ part. Do not know them personally. I'm surprised my handicap idea didn't get some run. If I pull down a hard crux, I required a significantly higher amount of strength to do that than most of you flyweights.


Petro over 190? You must not know the guy. He did climb 13+, but closer to 150, I'd say.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Stabby

Since we gauge success on some trumped-up numbers matrix, we really aren't too far from golf. If I ever get some free time, I'm writing up par-based scorecards for the home area with a weight/handicap chart.


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By James Crump
Aug 21, 2012

I was prowling in the 220 range in this video, and could still do 5.12 problems I had wired when I was as heavy as 240. It is about technic and good footwork to climb fat!!!


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Stabby

SteveBechtel wrote:
Petro over 190? You must not know the guy. He did climb 13+, but closer to 150, I'd say.

I've only seen him from a bit of a distance. But as a former linebacker myself I know you're not effective unless you're at least 180; and he was effective. Maybe he dropped a bunch for climbing


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By Patrick Mulligan
Aug 21, 2012
The top of the tufa on Magma

I grew up in Central PA and watched the hard core locals climb with amazing efficiency the very hard just under vertical stuff in the area while carrying spare tires fitting of a Monster Truck.


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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 21, 2012
Korea 1 1975

Don't know a thing about his weight, and never met him, but George Bell is no wisp of a guy and he's done most of the stuff on my bucket list.

I hope I'm not insulting you George, more recent pics of you that I've seen seem to show a meaner leaner you. On the climbs we've both done, I trust your beta more than most as being realistic for the "real" climber.


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By rogerbenton
Aug 21, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

john long references being "over 200lbs" when he was going nuts in the 70's and 80's.

i can feel a difference between when i'm 170 and 175, but then again i'm weak like a baby.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Aug 21, 2012

Petro isn't a tall guy, I can't imagine he would be anywhere near 200 even at his most bricked.

Greg Loh was pretty beefy back in the late 90s and crankin V10...but again, not a tall guy, probably not 2 bills.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Aug 21, 2012
Stabby

Muscle weighs a lot. I bet he played at 190 or so; don't have any idea what his climbing weight is.


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By rogerbenton
Aug 21, 2012
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

i remember this anecdote because i'm a lynn hill fan so i looked it up-

from john long's "how to rock climb", page 212, on upward oppositionals in a belay anchor:

"...I (210 lbs) once fell at Tahquitz and pulled belayer Lynn Hill (105 lbs) 10 feet into the air."

Maybe he's counting the rack....


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 21, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

This thread needs more pics of Eric Coffman climbing, please.


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By Eric Coffman
Aug 21, 2012
mountainlion

I'm glad you like my pics Mark!!

Eric Coffman leading Too Secret To Find 5.10b Joshua Tree
Eric Coffman leading Too Secret To Find 5.10b Joshua Tree


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