Great post Greg.

I love climbing no matter the grade, but this year is the first year I have actually gotten weaker. I don't care how much better I get each year, I just want to get better. Luckily there's still a few months left in 2012.

Greg it has been to long brother! Where have you been? Your Halloween costume is still my favorite (tried to dig up a climbing photo of you wearing this but no luck:(

I knew I recognized you from somewhere Greg! Submitted By: Eric Coffman on Aug 21, 2012

I think I hauled you up this one Greg if I'm not mistaken?? Remember Sidewinder in Jtree me freezing at the top while you struggled up with your ample girth keeping you warm. First and last time I used a 3 to 1 z
but I'm glad I knew how!!

Eric Coffman leading "sidewinder" 5.10b joshua tree Submitted By: Eric Coffman on Aug 21, 2012

Grand props on the "Irish Wench" climbing costume!

I'm roughly 190-200 and have climbed mid-11's before I tore my meniscus, but I can definitely climb harder than that, and will once I'm fully recovered. I don't think I've been below 190 since I started climbing 2-3 years ago.

I'm mostly muscle and don't think I could drop below 185 without some serious re-working, so I train harder for climbing :)

Two points:
OP is talking about 190 - 200 lbs, AND climbing .13+
Doing anything at or under 180 does not qualify.
Being 190 - 200 and climbing 5.11 does not either.
Steve Petro and John Long both climbed hard and weighed over 190, but I'm not sure about the .13+ part. Do not know them personally.

I'm surprised my handicap idea didn't get some run. If I pull down a hard crux, I required a significantly higher amount of strength to do that than most of you flyweights.

I have always been around 200. Never broke into 5.12, although I tried for a while. I have seen bigger guys climb harder, but I think genetics comes into play with finger and shoulder strength. Pulled tendons suck... Never seen someone my size pull 5.13 except on video.
Here is me failing on 11d. Every time I got close I would end up with 'overuse injuries'.

At hueco playing on the jug routes.


Never pulled harder than v4 either, and it was rare to see someone my size climbing at all. It does occur though. There is some Boulder guy that is huge, and climbs barefoot out there really hard. forget his name though. It can happen, but one needs exceptionally strong joints and resting skills.
Really hard climbing is for skinny little people that starve themselves!

sheik yer bouti Submitted By: Tevis Blom on Aug 21, 2012

hueco1 Submitted By: Tevis Blom on Aug 21, 2012

is 5.11 even a warmup for people who climb hard? probably not.

I'm 6' and fluctuate between 182 and 190. I've climbed v8 at my 'Christmas weight,' though my best sends tend to happen when I'm a little lighter.

That being said, v7+ and 5.13+ are moderate for bouldering and sport climbing. No one is going to become famous for climbing these grades.

But how would that be affected by age? A clyesdale/athena AND over 60? My suspicion would be the incidence of injury would be higher.

I have TR'ed a 5.10 at 210lbs. I like El Tigre's idea, you scrawny little sportos don't have a clue what it is like pulling 210lbs through a roof section.

Now I have dropped a bit of weight, down to 185. Still can't climb 5.13. But I climb hard in my head!

Since we gauge success on some trumped-up numbers matrix, we really aren't too far from golf. If I ever get some free time, I'm writing up par-based scorecards for the home area with a weight/handicap chart.

I was prowling in the 220 range in this video, and could still do 5.12 problems I had wired when I was as heavy as 240. It is about technic and good footwork to climb fat!!!

https://vimeo.com/23744926

I grew up in Central PA and watched the hard core locals climb with amazing efficiency the very hard just under vertical stuff in the area while carrying spare tires fitting of a Monster Truck.

Don't know a thing about his weight, and never met him, but George Bell is no wisp of a guy and he's done most of the stuff on my bucket list.

I hope I'm not insulting you George, more recent pics of you that I've seen seem to show a meaner leaner you. On the climbs we've both done, I trust your beta more than most as being realistic for the "real" climber.

john long references being "over 200lbs" when he was going nuts in the 70's and 80's.

i can feel a difference between when i'm 170 and 175, but then again i'm weak like a baby.

Petro isn't a tall guy, I can't imagine he would be anywhere near 200 even at his most bricked.

Greg Loh was pretty beefy back in the late 90s and crankin V10...but again, not a tall guy, probably not 2 bills.

Muscle weighs a lot. I bet he played at 190 or so; don't have any idea what his climbing weight is.

i remember this anecdote because i'm a lynn hill fan so i looked it up-

from john long's "how to rock climb", page 212, on upward oppositionals in a belay anchor:

"...I (210 lbs) once fell at Tahquitz and pulled belayer Lynn Hill (105 lbs) 10 feet into the air."

Maybe he's counting the rack....

This thread needs more pics of Eric Coffman climbing, please.