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The Zoids
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Fat Finger Frenzy 
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Peeled and Deveined 
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Young Wretches 

Fat Finger Frenzy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
FA: [Tom Hanson, Joe Desimone, 1986-7]
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 28, 2002
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Continuous crack on the left.
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Description 

To locate this route, look for the first, large south-facing wall at the Zoids, coming from the north. There are large blocks beneath the right part of this wall and the wall that makes up the corner. FFF is the obvious overhanging finger crack at the left (west) end of the wall.

The route is pretty fun, but some of the rock is crumbly (needs a little cleaning) and the pro to start is not that good. This is why it gets the R rating. The rock quality at the start is not too good, and I don't think a cam would hold very well. At the undercling, a reasonable cam or two may be placed, but this is it until you've made the first crux move.

The only other spot to place a bit of gear before the crux is needed for your hand to jam. Moving into this sequence is really fun. If it seems harder than 11b moving up to the bulge, you're missing a hidden, mini-jug. There is another crux moving past the bulge. Before cranking this crux, there is an opportunity to place some more gear.

Since the whole route is overhanging, it is a little pumpy, but you get a break at a ledge before the last little boulder problem. Getting started at the end is a little insecure, but pro is easy to place at your head. You get some nice exposure to finish up.


Protection 

Dicey pro--small to medium cams.

For a TR, use several long slings, some hexes, and a #4 Friend if you have one along.



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