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Fat Crack and Beer
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Brilliant Pebble (CLOSED)
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Brown Star S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Delta Star T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fat Crack and Beer T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Full Sail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Grey Goose S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lackawanna T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Machete Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One for the Gipper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Steamfist futurist T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson, Mike Kopcienski |
| Page Views: | 731 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Gilliam on Jul 8, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay |
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Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
Begin at the wide crack on the wall behind the Brilliant Pebble. Tunnel into the wall to place a big cam in a horizontal, then return to the light and scum through the wide bit on TR. Enjoy easy climbing on okay rock up to the first roof. Bypass this to the right and then rail out the hanging face, clipping two widely spaced bolts. Pull a smaller roof over gear to a good rest on a ledge. Tech through through the vertical crux above past two more bolts staying mindful of that big ledge.
Rope drag from the big roof makes clipping in the high crux quite challenging, with a ledge waiting below. If you were to drag a second rope for to the top bit, the route might just feel more like the 5.11 that it probably is.
Rope drag from the big roof makes clipping in the high crux quite challenging, with a ledge waiting below. If you were to drag a second rope for to the top bit, the route might just feel more like the 5.11 that it probably is.
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