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Fat City 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 419
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: fat city
Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the large chimney that the approach trail comes out in front of at the Simpsons/Bovine wall. Go up chunky corner and work up the short slab into the chimney. Work up the chimney and out to a block then around and to the top.


Protection 

Trees for anchors, no bolts.



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fat city
BETA PHOTO: fat city
Sonia Shultis TR on Fat City.
Sonia Shultis TR on Fat City.
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By P. Sully
Jan 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The gear in the chimney is not great. Before you get to the roof, you can get a decent #0 purple TCU in the right wall.

you can get good cams in the roof but it has a hollow sound. I always put on in each side of the big detached block that forms the roof before I exit.

Fun route to TR but a bit spooky for a 5.7 leader.

By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Blacksburg VA
Jul 29, 2014

+1 on Paul's comments, a #4 cam is very comforting going around the block exiting the chimney section. Great climb and though the gear is not all perfect there is a lot more of it than I was expecting and the climbing is very secure. A great lead!