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Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
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I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
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Sardonic Smile 
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Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Fat Boys Don't Fly 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 472
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009
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Description 

This is the first bolted route to the right of Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with Route 22 (5.9).


Location 

Route #23 in the beta photo.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 26, 2009

Cool route. Continuous overhanging climbing on a mix of pockets, only a few of which are of the "thank-god" variety. The crux section near the top felt pretty damn tough, although only for a couple moves, where you reach a pretty good ledge. The dyno that I think Samet is referring to would be sick to stick (and a big one!), but makes no sense as there's a decent side-pull up left, which is certainly on-route. Having very little experience with White Rock 12s, I can't say what I think the grade is, but I agree with George that it's quite a bit harder than Wailing Banshees or Flesh-Eating Gnats.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Jason is right. The crux on this route is totally rad, and yes, it seemed harder than 5.11c (my estimate from my TRing session would be 5.12a, but I'm not sure). Not exactly tightly bolted either, so be ready go large! I doubt I'll have the stones to lead this anytime soon (I top roped Fat Boys after leading the crack to its left, which is a fun route in itself).

In any case, Fat Boys Don't Fly is a forgotten classic that should be on every BTONP hard-person's circuit.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Finally got a chance to lead this yesterday. It's not quite as good as I remembered, but still a fun climb. The crux, at least the way I did it, involves several big moves between big holds, but definitely nothing I would call a dyno. I would say 5.12a is fair for this beta, though I bet some people might find it soft for the grade if they are better at steep, pumpy climbing than they are at the technical face climbing ubiquitous to WR.