Fat Black Chuck
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Climb using a few good pockets up the front face of a pillar to a crux at the mid-way point. Finish steep at the anchor.
Well protected climbing ends on steep terrain with hidden holds. Sequential and Exciting!
This is one of two routes at the second most significant buttress. It sits on the south facing wall off the trail near the entrance of the Gap. Its anchors sit just below a large protruding roof.
Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The anchors are kind of weird. Not unsafe, but there is a single chain that hangs way over the bulge. If I did this again, I'd bring a couple of long slings and some lockers and extend the anchor over the bulge to reduce the rope drag. the last 3 feet of climbing doesn't add that much to this, but the bottom section is pretty cool.