Fat and Weak
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Fat and Weak
The entire route is rated 5.7 PG/R, but the first pitch is a nice, well-protected 5.6 that is worthy of attention.
P1: Establish yourself onto the left-leaning, right-facing ramp, and make a few steep moves by a crack to get up into the right-facing corner capped by a roof above. Step left to escape the roof, then up the face to the ledge and rap station (50'). This rap station is ... not inspiring. 5.6, G (but no gear until you've mounted the ramp)
P2: From the ledge, find the line of least resistance, to continue up another 40 ft. to another tree rappel station. The easiest path wanders left and right through the lichen. Protection is scarce, so do not pass up an opportunity to place something. A 60m rope gets you down in one rappel. 5.7, PG/R
Walking away from Grease Gun Groove
, look for a left-leaning but right-facing ramp that leads to a crack, whispering "climb me!" and obey it.
By Skip Thompson
Oct 2, 2015
The first pitch bulge is a 5.6 joy, especially. Totally worth it. The second pitch has a 17-20 foot run-out from one placement to the next, and for a new 5.7 leader it's a bit spooky--though all the holds are there. I on-sighted it today 1 Oct 2015 and ran both pitches together easily.
Oct 2, 2015
If the intermediate anchor were better, I'd list the route as 5.6 and just describe the first pitch -- it deserves it. The second pitch, not so much.