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Fastest Rope Retirement So Far
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May 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals...
I have a 10.5 bluewater for trad and Tring. It's done maybe 25-30 pitches and it's just starting to get broken in it feels like. The sheath seems really durable but it is a fatter rope at 10.5. I have a 9.8 sterling for sport routes and it's been up maybe 5 routes and I haven't noticed any wear to speak of but haven't fallen on it. I'm kinda liking the bluewater for trad and cragging. AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Joined Feb 10, 2013
107 points
Administrator
May 4, 2013
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
Mammut has never failed me Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
13,482 points
May 4, 2013
...
"Locker. That is a known issue with that brand. It is NOT normal. Call them. They will replace it."

Thanks! I think rather than be foolish and stubborn (My usual pattern), I am going to take your advice and call Monday. Had you not posted that this is a known issue, I probably wouldn't.

THANKS, regardless of the outcome!

and who knows? Maybe they will, replace it...

???
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
May 9, 2013
...
UPDATE #2:

Just got off the phone with New England Ropes. Good company! They've requested that I send the rope back, and they will, "Reverse engineer" the rope.

The dude I spoke with immediately knew what the issue with my rope is and referred to it as "Mouseing" (Little lumps on the inside of the rope).

I will update as I get more info.

One thing the dude said and he said it in a way that makes me take him seriously. He flat out said, "Do NOT use the rope". I asked a little more and he again emphasized to NOT use the rope.

So if anyone else has this "Mouseing" going on with their ropes, apparently it is not something to take too lightly.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
May 9, 2013
tanuki
Cool! I am glad that they stood behind their product and are going to take care of you. I have never heard the term "mousing" before, but it seems to be a very good description. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
May 9, 2013
...
"I have never heard the term "mousing" before, but it seems to be a very good description".

Ditto! I've been in this game a while now, and I too have never heard the term.

What it is, is the inner core intermittently sort of bunches up in small spots, creating lumps ("Mouseing") inside the sheath. He went on to explain that it can be caused in two ways. One is having a climber take a BIG ONE and loading the line super heavy and hard (Didn't happen with my rope. No whippers!). The other he didn't fully explain yet (But will when we speak again. he was on his way out the door and didn't have the time right then). But it has something to do with "Human interaction" as he said, implying that the cause may well be due to someone sort of fucking up a little bit. Seems it is not that uncommon.

They're a good company! He said they'd replace my rope. That's cool! I would have been OK if they didn't. Just wanted to know what gives. I was going to go ahead and use the damned thing.


...
...
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
May 10, 2013
Which way again?
Glad to stimulate some intelligent discussion. And, some other things.

That rope is getting switched out for a Mammut. I'm saving for something pretty epic right now so I won't be buying ropes anytime soon, but I think I'm pretty much sold on the Edelrid Boas and the Bluewater Dominators if I'm going sub-10 mil. I haven't found anything else under 10 that really gets my attention for quality. Plus, the Boas can be had dirty cheap if you look. And Bluewaters have always exceeded expectations in my experience. I usually pass them on when I chop them down to the 50M area after a couple years. Newbies get started dirt cheap and I get all warm and fuzzy.

After which I eat a baby. I have my rep to consider. Mmm, delicious baby.
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
May 10, 2013
The Shield
Killis,
One of the reasons I come to MP is to see the Killis Photo. It has not changed in some time. Please fix this.
Sam
Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Joined Apr 9, 2006
2,248 points
May 10, 2013
beck on limestone
"As soon as I can afford it, I want a quiver of ropes: a thick and thin version, say a 9.5 and a 10.5, in lengths of 50m, 60m, and 70m. It's amazing how much of my local, day-today cragging doesn't even need a 50m! "
---------------------------------------

This quiver concept works for me. Keep my thin Mammut and Edelweiss for multi-pitch days when I want a thin rope. Use 9.9 to 10.2's for days with top roping, sport crag lowering and so forth. If I know the crag I pack the appropriate length rope. What I call a "working rope".

Mind you, I have been dropped off the end of the rope by my belayer

Fastest rope retirement was my first kernmantle climbing rope; an Edelried 50m. First day....Took it to a basalt crag in Washington and accidentally dropped a rock on it from the rim.

Second fastest retirement was cleaning the second pitch of a project up at Mt. Charleston; after maybe 25 days of use. My fault for leaving part of it lying on the belay ledge. Should have hung the coils. Partial core shot and we had to rap off it. Kind of an unforgettable moment.

On durability my info is purely anecdotal. A Beal fuzzed out pretty fast but was sweet when new. Blue Water seems to collect a lot of grime and aluminum oxide from the gear. Edelweiss and Mammut seem to wear a long time; take a lot of abuse. Best rope I ever owned was a Singing Rock.

Just bought a Sterling 10.1 Marathon bi-color off eBay...I guess pray for me.
Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Joined Feb 5, 2006
862 points
May 13, 2013
Which way again?
Sam, I've got serious distraction issues. The new girl's a keeper, the 50' roof I'm projecting looks like it's gonna go free, even though it's four billion degrees in the canyons already, work is picking up and paying off, and it's mostly still the same assortment of has beens, never was', and troll-tastic ball receptacles around here. Kind of hard to find inspiration for anything around here other than writing graffiti on a bathroom wall.

You tell me: anything interesting happening on here lately worth reading?

Anyway, here's my 15 seconds of effort to please ya. Most girls don't even get that out of me. BA-ZING!

Fuzzy, dice. Like a pair a dice. Or, paradise. I t...
Fuzzy, dice. Like a pair a dice. Or, paradise. I think the 'cat' got my tongue....
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
May 21, 2013
...
Update on my quickly retired Maxim.

Spoke with them again about it in more detail. As it turns out the "mouseing" that is in the rope was not incurred from a fall so that means it happened during the manufacturing of the rope. Apparently a super whipper can cause it or something similar. Not the case, here.

They are going to reverse engineer the thing. At that time, hopefully they'll tell me what the hell is up.

They're also are replacing it which is cool.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
Jul 13, 2013
My fastest ever was using a petzl rope in NC. I used it for one day and the sheath/core separated and caused terrible bunching when running through the belay device. Returned to REI immediately. They said they would deal with petzl directly.

Currently I have:
Sterling kosmos 10.2 with several hundred days use on it. Getting ready to retire because the sheath won't come clean and leaves black powder on my quick draws when climbing.

Sterling velocity 9.8 with maybe 30 days use? Seems like new.

Sterling 9.4 (model?) with ten days use. Still perfect.
Bryan Hall
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Feb 16, 2008
137 points
Jul 14, 2013
...
UPDATE:

New England Maxim Rope:

They did finally send me a replacement (Re the "Mousing" of mine). I haven't heard back from them however, on the "reverse engineering" they claimed they would be doing.

Of the two reasons they said could cause it, one being human error, the other being a violent fall, considering that I didn't take a huge whipper, it could only be human error.
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
Aug 10, 2013
Bad Bannana's
Sterling Ion 2 9.4 bicolor

Used it on ice maybe 30 times and after the first 5 it started leaving tiny bits of rope at the top binner when doing TR laps on ice. Lots of red snow from it too.

Super fuzzy now, not sure how long I'm gonna take it into this ice season. It's only mildly water resistant now anyways.

Now my mammut 10.5 is a BEAST, can't hurt it at all! Just soaks up like 20 pounds on water in wet ice conditions...
Eli Harry
Joined Oct 14, 2011
79 points
Aug 10, 2013
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Locker wrote:
UPDATE: New England Maxim Rope: They did finally send me a replacement (Re the "Mousing" of mine). I haven't heard back from them however, on the "reverse engineering" they claimed they would be doing. Of the two reasons they said could cause it, one being human error, the other being a violent fall, considering that I didn't take a huge whipper, it could only be human error.

I've always thought that pulling too much twist through a rope could pervert the interior braid and cause that... I've noticed it in localized areas of a few ropes over the years after a hard twisty pull/rap. I could always massage the localized areas out.
Ask NE what they think of that proposition as a possible cause?
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Aug 16, 2013
My fastest rope to retire story is. . .
With my friends new rope, PMI I think but I don't remember it been a couple of years now. We headed out to try a new route to work as a project. We arrived stoked and ready to go. we harnessed up and my buddy pulls out a new rope still in the plastic and flakes er out.
He climbs first and while working the route misses a bolt and heads to the next one about 60 or so feet up. He pops off of the crux and takes a good 30+ footer with a slight right trend to the route over a roof. The rope catches a flake/crystal/sharp something and with the pendulum along with the edge of the roof the rope gets striped about two feet of the sheath exposing the core. Not even one whole climb out of it.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Aug 16, 2013
New England Glider 10.2, great rope, very durable sheath, lasts a long time. Have had 2 used for sport and trad, cragging and multi-pitch over the last 3-4 years used on weekends. Highly recommended. Kevin Soleil
Joined Jun 15, 2013
0 points
Aug 18, 2013
Dylan Weldin wrote:
I would highly recommend a 9.8-10.2mm to replace your cord... Check SuperTopo's rope review for durability considerations: outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Ro... I also take bearbreeder and Locker's advice to heart: Steal of the century?


Interesting how "catch" seems to bear little relation to dynamic elongation in their tests. They don't mention any durability tests other than climbing with them. The tests sound very subjective and perhaps guided by price. I also follow bearbreeder's advice. For example I've had a couple of very cheap Elelrid Condors I've been very pleased with in terms of handling, durability and catch. Not many long routes where we climb so weight is not an issue for us.
Syd
Joined May 21, 2013
0 points
Aug 18, 2013
Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
I bought a mammut tusk recently. I have abused it, practice falls, cragging, and alpine. Looks pretty good still. Just a bit of fuzz. Also the lap coiled packaging is so obvious! Other manufacturers need to catch on to that one! C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
656 points
Aug 18, 2013
Viking helmet cover, yep.
SirChips-A-Lot = CallumRD1 ? If so, brilliant. Abram Herman
From Golden, CO
Joined May 23, 2009
43 points
Aug 19, 2013
Abram Herman wrote:
SirChips-A-Lot = CallumRD1 ? If so, brilliant.


Not quite, unfortunately.
CallumRD1
From Lewison, ME
Joined May 4, 2013
20 points
Aug 19, 2013
base of castelton
I once had a brand new Sterling 9.4 sever completely after a large block of ice fell on it. Certainly the manufactures fault...
p.s. why's nobody climbing on 10 mm anymore!?
VARMENT
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined May 24, 2010
108 points
Administrator
Aug 19, 2013
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
CallumRD1 = Bates college student stoked to live so close to Shagg? Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,419 points
Aug 19, 2013
Has anyone used the Roca Kalymnos ropes. Can't find any information on them. Brannen
From Flowery Branch, GA
Joined Oct 11, 2010
3 points
Aug 19, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
CallumRD1 = Bates college student stoked to live so close to Shagg?


Not bad, although I have climbed in the Whites more than in Maine as a friend of mine with a car (unfortunately just graduated) lives half way between North Conway, NH and school.
CallumRD1
From Lewison, ME
Joined May 4, 2013
20 points


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