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Fastest Rope Retirement So Far
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By Red
From Arizona
Apr 23, 2013
Cobra Kai
Locker, I'm not sure about the core and sheath materials, but I do think the finishing coats that are on dry ropes must help a lot.

I have had great life out of my Mammut Infinity 9.5. It has done so well over the last couple of years that I recently bought another one and it is still in the package waiting for my other one to finally die.

Mammut uses a couple different finishes. I believe one is to increase durability and lessen drag, the another is the dry coat. The combination of the them seems to work quite well.

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Apr 23, 2013
tanuki
My experience with Sterling is that the 9.8 Evolution Velocity and all of the Marathon series are VERY durable. This is just my experience, but they seem to last longer than any other rope I have used (with Mammut coming in as a close second). My Sterling 10.1 is a workhorse that I cannot seem to kill. Although it is by no means lightweight, it is not so heavy that it reduces my performance on the rock.

The 9.2 and 9.4 are "performance" oriented ropes. They are skinny, lightweight, and have very different wear characteristics than "thicker" ropes. Although I have not seen anything like what Killis is describing, in my experience the durability of the smaller ropes is significantly less than the other ropes produced by Sterling. Regardless of manufacturer, all the smaller ropes are always less durable.

My suggestion; give Sterling a call. They seem to be a good company that stands behind their product.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

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By bearbreeder
Apr 23, 2013
Red wrote:
Locker, I'm not sure about the core and sheath materials, but I do think the finishing coats that are on dry ropes must help a lot.


it helps. but not alot ... if you climb daily the dry coating wears out in about 1-2 months anyways ... especially on more moderate (rope drag) routes, lowering and TRing

ive had 85$ ropes survive as well than 250$ mammut galaxies ...

ive come to the conclusion that except for specialized purposes ... ie doubles for long multi/alpine, ultrathin ones for sending your ultralong super hard redpoints, dry ropes for ice, etc ...

there is NO point of a $$$$$$$ rope over the cheap ones ... certainly not for durability

if you want a "durable" rope ... go buy a 10-10.3mm with a tight weave at a cheap price ... its really that simple ;)

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 23, 2013
...
"if you want a "durable" rope ... go buy a 10-10.3mm with a tight weave at a cheap price ... its really that simple".

I totally agree!

Also agree on the "Dry" treatments. They don't last for shit if you use your rope regularly.

And I also think that it is in the weaving that there is probably a difference going on with longevity.

Rope life of course also depends one hell of a LOT on the rock type you choose to use it on.

But that ain't NEW, news!

;-)





EDITED:

Softer or harder "Catch", is a different story.

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By Darren Knezek
Apr 23, 2013
A route I established at The Overlook called, Photo Opp. Rated 10d.
A few years ago I found a new route to bolt just south of Rock Canyon. It was going to be an almost 230 feet long pitch! I bolted on rappel with an old 70 meter rope that I had had for a few years. I hid my brand new 70 meter rope underneath an overhang at the base of the climb. I would bolt the climb and then ascend back up with the new rope, tie them together, rappel back down, and then pull my ropes.
When I got to the base of the climb, a coil from the middle of my new rope had flipped outside of the overhang and a rock I had thrown off while bolting, hit the rope and cut it in half! I didn't get to use my new rope for a single pitch.
My Fastest Rope Retirement So Far.

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By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 23, 2013
Aiding.
I agree that the tight weave helps with longevity. I recently bought a Maxim with the TPT single-weave sheath.

It's held up really well to some nasty top rope abuse, including some newbies lowering down some Castlewood conglomerate, losing their balance, and raking the sheath across the Castlewood 20 grit.

It's in surprisingly good shape, even in the spots where I have beat the crap out of it.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 23, 2013
...
"It's in surprisingly good shape, even in the spots where I have beat the crap out of it.".

Not to worry! We'll be fucking that one up and the new ones I have in the shop real soon.

LOL!

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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 23, 2013
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
It is funny to see the posts above. 5 pitches, core shot, no falls, blah, blah, blah... I'm never going to buy this brand ever again. If you read the rope forums you will see that someone, somewhere core shoted most every rope out there. And then says I'll never buy that brand ever again. In another forum someone will say that is the best rope they have ever owned.

I'm not saying all ropes have the same durability. Just that shit happens. It only takes one little eff up to damage a rope. And it is quite possible to not even know when it happens. Sheath weave plays a major role in durability as well as handling and impact forces. Generally speaking, tight weaves are more durable with higher impact forces.

YMMV

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By Arlo F Niederer
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 24, 2013
Locker:

Yes, the weave patterns are different on the sheaths, as well as waterproofing which can affect durability.

neropes.com/product.aspx?mid=F...

I purchased a 9.9 x 70m bi color New England Glider, and it is holding up well after about 20 climbs...I just use it for longer trad climbs. It feels stiff, but slides through pro nicely as advertised. But brand new, it had many, many, kinks and I had to flake from end to end about 6 times before I could tame the kinks (aka - a--holes). But it's tamed now and doesn't kink like it used to.

If you look at reviews of the rope on REI's web page, people's experience varies widely...one user had 130 days and still going strong...a couple others said it wore out quickly.

Seems like the biggest variable is the way people treat their ropes...

Maybe it's time to rethink the thin cord trend... if you are leading 30m (100 ft) sport climbs, there's only a 1.1 pound difference between 9.9 and 11 mm, so if the crux is at 50ft, the 11mm is only 1/2 pound heavier than the 9.9... A 2 pound difference carrying to the crag...

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 24, 2013
...
"Seems like the biggest variable is the way people treat their ropes..."


That's the direction I've been leaning as well.

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By bearbreeder
Apr 24, 2013
Arlo F Niederer wrote:
Seems like the biggest variable is the way people treat their ropes... Maybe it's time to rethink the thin cord trend... if you are leading 30m (100 ft) sport climbs, there's only a 1.1 pound difference between 9.9 and 11 mm, so if the crux is at 50ft, the 11mm is only 1/2 pound heavier than the 9.9... A 2 pound difference carrying to the crag...


honestly i treat my ropes like shiet according to some anal retentive people who dont climb very much ... i rarelyw ash em, may or may not use a rope bag cragging, definately dont use a rope bag on the multis here with dirty ledges, i step on the rope all the time ... ill use em as fixed solo lines, have TR gangbangs with em, whip on em all day ... etc ...

and im out more or less daily now, just getting my morning MP fix before heading out today ...

i get probably 150+ days or 1000+ pitches out of a rope ... but then i generally use 10mm and above ... and i buy the cheapest ropes that i can find which handle well ... my last few ropes costs 85-100$

im a shietty climber, but i use those "thick" ropes for everything from chief runs, to 5.11/12 trad/sport, to longer multis ... not once have i told myself that a 10mm rope held me back ... maybe i need to climb harder

IMO the thin rope trend is a great way to part climbers from their money ;)

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 24, 2013
...
^^^

Pretty much 100% on board with the above.

I also do not use a rope tarp, don't ever wash my ropes, occasionally step on them without shitting in my pants, etc...

I also agree about the "thin rope trend".

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By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 24, 2013
Aiding.
I've got no problem with the thin rope trend, just use them as they should be used: for that desperate route you've been projecting for a week (on the final send), or for those long, every-ounce-counts alpine climbs, or for those folks who are total bad asses and never toprope.

That said, a rope is a consumable item: it's supposed to die, so I don't sweat the wear and tear.

But it shouldn't die for no reason, which is more or less what the original post is about. That would concern me, and I'd contact the manufacturer just to make sure it wasn't some rare manufacturing defect. It's probably more likely that something bad happened to it and the poster did not notice at the time, but the manufacturer should be clued in any way.

As soon as I can afford it, I want a quiver of ropes: a thick and thin version, say a 9.5 and a 10.5, in lengths of 50m, 60m, and 70m. It's amazing how much of my local, day-today cragging doesn't even need a 50m!

And I'll beat 'em up!

But I will wash them, because I hate how dirty a dirty rope makes my hands. I won't wash them to make them last longer, thouugh, I really thing that is myth masquerading as fact.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 24, 2013
...
I had been out climbing all day with my then climbing partner. I accidentally left my rope in his truck. The next time we got together to climb the dude walks over with my rope, hands it to me and says, "I washed your rope". I almost SHIT in my pants and answered, "Fuck man! What the fuck for?".

It really pissed me off. Dude DIDN'T wash it as a favor to me. He washed it because it was dirty and he and his cohorts are ANAL RETINTIVES that have to wash their hands at the end of a climb.

LOL!



TIM...

DON'T DO IT MAN!

If I see you pull out a fucking bottle of "Hand Sanitizer" at the end of a climbing day I swear I might SHOOT you! LMAO!

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 27, 2013
...
So here I am on this thread being my usual fuck off self and what the fuck do you know? I too have ended up owning a piece of shit rope that is already fucked up and it's been used for about 10 climbing days, no hard falls, pretty much NOTHING hard on the rope, and it's got WEIRD spots all along it's core, and has also developed an ODD area almost like a "Core shot", where it has a BREAK feeling in the rope and no fall was even in that area of the rope.

I will say however for what it's worth, the rope handles nicely. But what the fuck is with the weirdness?

It's New England Maxim 10.2

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By Cultivating Mass
Apr 27, 2013
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Locker, anyone who's dissatisfied with epic rope collapse is a crying ninny. Really, just ask your parents for a new one like the rest of the site does!

Hope ya like that one. Coming from one person who pays his own bills and changes his own didies to another.

Celebrating the arrival of my new rack of VGs, it's party time! Losing skin, wearing kneepads, screaming for mercy party time. Sounds like standard Vegas fare...

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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Apr 27, 2013
Flaming Pumpkin
Locker wrote:
So here I am on this thread being my usual fuck off self and what the fuck do you know? I too have ended up owning a piece of shit rope that is already fucked up and it's been used for about 10 climbing days, no hard falls, pretty much NOTHING hard on the rope, and it's got WEIRD spots all along it's core, and has also developed an ODD area almost like a "Core shot", where it has a BREAK feeling in the rope and no fall was even in that area of the rope. I will say however for what it's worth, the rope handles nicely. But what the fuck is with the weirdness? It's New England Maxim 10.2


Strange. In my experience New England makes the best ropes, both for climbing and boating. You may want to email a rep and ask, their customer service has been nothing but great if I ever have a problem

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 27, 2013
...
"Strange. In my experience New England makes the best ropes, both for climbing and boating. You may want to email a rep and ask, their customer service has been nothing but great if I ever have a problem".


I'm just going to use the damned thing as it is and see what the fuck happens.

Like yourself, I've NEVER had a problem with New England ropes. This one was on sale NEW for under $100.00. I do wonder if the weirdness felt along the entire length has something to do with that cheaper price. It's like to core strands are bunched a bit along the way. You run your hand along the rope and feel LUMPS all over it. It's a strange one.

The real ODD feeling spot that is like it took a core shot is the strangest.

Oh well!

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 27, 2013
...
"Locker, anyone who's dissatisfied with epic rope collapse is a crying ninny. Really, just ask your parents for a new one like the rest of the site does!

Hope ya like that one. Coming from one person who pays his own bills and changes his own didies to another."


LOL!

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By coppolillo
Apr 27, 2013
Love our Mammut ropes...the 9.2 Revelation is great, the 8.9 Serenity is surprisingly durable, the 9.5 Infinity awesome all-arounder, durable, handles well.

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
May 4, 2013
...
The rope I have continues to be WEIRD.

It's like the core of the rope bunches up in small areas inside the sheath, creating LUMPS along the entire rope length. Needless to say those lumps rub over the rock more than the other areas, and the rope is quickly getting thrashed.

First time I have ever dealt with anything like this. Strange rope.

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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 4, 2013
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
Locker,
You do know yur gonna die right?

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
May 4, 2013
tanuki
Locker. That is a know issue with that brand. It is NOT normal. Call them. They will replace it.

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By nicholas patterson
From Boulder, CO
May 4, 2013
alpine happiness.
new england glider 9.9x70
new england glider 9.9x70


jugged over a sharp edge yesterday at castle rock. fairly new line (maybe 15 days, 5 falls). was a little bummed for sure.

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By Ari Kantola
From Raleigh, NC
May 4, 2013
Petzl sucks. Bought mine from rei. Three days at pilot mt. and major fraying. Going back to rei soon. I'm thinking mammut next

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