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Fast Moving Train 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Mayer, 12/90
Season: spring, winter and fall
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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starting off on the tenuous Fast Moving Train

Description 

Probably something has broken on this one over the years. It is diffenetly not 11a like the Swain book says. Delicate climbing on small crimps will get you to some powerful move towards the top then travese right to finish at the chains.

Location 

Climbs along the left arete and face.

Protection 

5 bolts


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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 14, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

I dont know if this is .11c/d, the crux is definitely thin and steep, though. I'd say .11a is reasonable, although .11b would probably be more accurate. Watch clipping the second bolt- thats a spooky move for sure.
By Deniz
From: Boise
Dec 5, 2011

This felt significantly harder than a 5.11a - though it was my third day on and it was the last climb of the day so maybe I was just really really tired.
By Cultivating Mass
Dec 5, 2011

I'm loving the one-man grade dispute-rated it the same as the OP, PLUS a PG-13 (not common on Calico sport routes), THEN going to 11a original grade agreement, *THEN* maybe 11b?

The only thing obvious here is that someone is very confused about how many grades you can apply to one climb.

"John Wilder
Apr 14, 2007
RATING: Suggests 5.11C/D PG-13
I dont know if this is .11c/d, the crux is definitely thin and steep, though. I'd say .11a is reasonable, although .11b would probably be more accurate. Watch clipping the second bolt- thats a spooky move for sure."

Is it just me? Or is this weird, or normal, or partly strange, or maybe more normal than usual? Or 5.4 R/X?
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

The route isn't too bad as a top rope problem, although the anchors are in a terrible place. It is god-awful to lead, though, because there are absolutely no clipping stances. Pretty unpleasant, honestly, and certainly not 11a.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 23, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

On Jan 23rd, 2014 the ASCA replaced all 5 protection bolts and the anchors of this route with ClimbTech glue-in Wave bolts and equipped the anchor with mussy hooks.
By tenesmus
Feb 10, 2014

I thought this was really fun and will do it again. Cool, techie moves in the middle, then a nice lock-off clip, loads of dynamic movement and pawing around topout. Super fun line.