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Industrial Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Up T 
Belly Up Variation T 
Blow Chow T 
Darker is Better T 
Fast Boat to China T 
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 
Forgotten Names S 
Heidi Hi T 
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 
John Roskelly Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 
Nipple Phyle T 
Noodle Factory T 
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 
Scarlett's Pulse T 
Take Flight S 
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 
What Would Jesus Bolt S 

Fast Boat to China 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: '92 by Scott Berk, free solo?
Page Views: 1,774
Submitted By: George Bell on Feb 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Bruno Hache stemmed wide halfway up the pitch.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the left crack system between Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags and The John Roskelly Show. The upper part is visible in the photo below as the right-leaning twin cracks on the left side of the photo.

This climb seems to involve devious powerful moves between large ledges. Start at an overhanging crack and reach up for a "thank god handhold". From this ledge, a very thin crack continues, but I was unable to get my fingers into this crack and it seems a bit over 5.8. If you move right a few feet, some devious moves will get you onto the next ledge at the grade.

The upper part of the route follows nice twin cracks, exiting using the left crack. There is no anchor on top, but if you belay from gear you can easily walk back down by walking east 50 feet to an easy gully. Alternatively, you can lower off the anchor for Politicians, Priests, and Bodybags, but this is somewhat awkward to reach.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5" with emphasis on cams under 1". Closely-spaced 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Fast Boat to China Slideshow Add Photo
Fast Boat to China.  The easiest start uses the crack on the right and steps left to a good ledge.  Place pro in the thin crack on the left, but climb to the right.   <br /> <br />Near the top, you can exit left to the anchor on "Politicians, Priests and Body Bags" and lower, or layback up a hand crack on the right and belay from the top.
BETA PHOTO: Fast Boat to China. The easiest start uses the cr...
Lower in the climb going up the left side of the route which I would definitely say was not a 5.8.
Lower in the climb going up the left side of the r...
Bruno Hache low on the route.  He placed pro in the thin crack on the left, but is climbing to the right.  <br /> <br />Climbing the thin corner crack directly would up the difficulty far beyond 5.8.
Bruno Hache low on the route. He placed pro in th...
Fast Boat to China, Politicians Priests and Body Bags, and Heidi Hi.
BETA PHOTO: Fast Boat to China, Politicians Priests and Body B...
Ron Olsen using the same stem as Bruno Hache in the previous photo.  Shorter climbers will have to find another way!
Ron Olsen using the same stem as Bruno Hache in th...
Near the bottom after the difficult start.
Near the bottom after the difficult start.

Comments on Fast Boat to China Add Comment
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By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Feb 3, 2003

The FA of this route was in '92 by Scott Berk, free solo. I think it is one of the funner trad leads at NT.
By Anthony Everhart
Feb 4, 2003

Near the top go right for a good short section of hand crack. Bring plenty of #3 Friends for the belay and the crack.
By shad O'Neel
Apr 10, 2003

A great crack climb, but seemed way harder than 5.8. The thin crack George speaks of was too small for my fingers as well, and I fell a few times trying it. Then, it's pure fun though. I climbed Politicians etc. next and found it to be easier even the the grade suggests 2 grades harder.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fabulous pitch, and would merit three stars even if it were in Eldorado. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top.

The easiest line starts in a crack to the right, then steps left to a good ledge. Place pro in the thin corner to the left, but climb to the right to keep the difficulty at 5.8+.

Near the end, you can angle up left to the anchor on "Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags" and lower, or layback up a hand crack to the right and belay from the top.

Pro: blue Alien to #2 Camalot; doubles on the #.75, #1, and #2 Camalots were useful.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Dec 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is an excellent gear route in Golden Cliffs. We knocked it off just as the rains came today. Getting on the little shelf in the dihedral was probably the crux, but later there are some thoughtful sequences that you could just smear or take the time to work out. Pro is great the whole way. I concur with Ron's rating, too. A bit harder than other 5.8s at the crag.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route now sports a nice two bolt anchor at the top.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Nov 1, 2009

Gosh, I've always thought that THIS was PP&BB, (so I was apparently lost, but I did it way over 10 yrs ago with the R&I topo?). [It's amazing what you learn with a book.] If you stay in the thin crack/acute corner, it seems 5.9+ [awkward with my size fingers] if you don't stem too much. (Further, I thought that the crack just right was an easier variation.) I stay in the corner until I get to the 2 bolt anchor. (I used nuts today and nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot, though I essentially soloed to the 1st ledge.) So, jump on it if you're a trad climber and amaze the passerbys!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Awkward at the base and harder than 5.8 at the thin fingers section. Good though.