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Fashion Total 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 8, 2012

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At the rest before the crux upper section. April 2...

Description 

One of the longest routes at Futbolin, this fun route checks in at 7a+. Also, it's extremely well-protected. Two gigantic rests keep this route very moderate for the grade leaving only a single difficult boulder problem crux at the last bolt, just before the anchors.

Tricky, interesting climbing through the first five tightly-bolted bolts gets you to a big ledge; no need to loiter here very long...climb past two more bolts to a sit-down rest atop the small pillar with a fine view of the surrounding countryside. Pry yourself free from this fine perch and followed the enjoyable, positive flake up and left past two more bolts on ever-steepening terrain just below the crux. Crank from the generous hand-sized hole into a big pinch. Pinch for glory and work up through a couple of flat edges to a deep jug at the anchor.

Location 

This is the first route to the left of a large vertical cleft near the middle of the wall.

Protection 

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with a single steel biner.


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