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Farside

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Arena of Pleasure, The 
Bare Buttress, The 
Hummingbird Wall and Hummingbird Terrace 
Main Cliff 

Farside  


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Location: 45.56907, -122.20566 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010
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Ass shot of Ryan Sund leading BooCoup. JosephH (b...

Description 

Description compliments of Bill Coe.

Discovered about the same time by the untiring explorer Jim Opdycke and located less than a 1/2 mile East down the SR14 road from Ozone. There is anecdotal evidence that some locals had climbed some here in the 70's, although that has been lost to history except for when they showed up and told some climbers this and that this was formerly private land.

One thing which differentiates and makes The Far Side unique and different from The Ozone is the restraint of bolts. Although there are a few bolted routes here and there, it could have been possible to put in a bolted route every few feet. Yet it was desired that this area remain like a more traditional climbing area, where folks could learn and practice with gear. This gives the place a different feel than a bolted area, and it's good spot to develop a "lead head" and learn real technical rock climbing. Please help keep it this way for future climbers and restrict the use of bolts. This place can remain for those who appreciate the deeper and different challenge of natural gear lines, and Ozone for those who seek out bolt clip ups.

The one piece of kit all climbers will benefit from carrying here is a small whisk broom. These can often be had for a buck at the dollar tree stores, so get some extras for your buddies when you're there. If everyone just whisked a bit here and a bit there pretty soon the entire area would be as clean as your kitchen counter....perhaps cleaner.

Getting There 

Farside is near mile post 24 on Washington State Highway 14, slightly east of Ozone on the south side of the highway. Park at the large pullout on the south side of the road at the top of the hill just before a right curve in the road (if heading east). Their is also another smaller pullout just west of the larger one. Their is a trail at each end of the area. An East trail starting from the large pullout, which begins at any number of trails that access a trail at the top of the cliff, head east on this trail until it turns and heads down to the base. Their is also a west trail, more easily accessed from the smaller pullout, but you can also walk west along a guardrail to access this trail from the larger pullout. This trail switchbacks more gently down between the main cliff and the arena of pleasure.

Routes - West to East 

Arena of Pleasure This is the area to the right of the main (West) trail.
41 Feet of Pain 5.5
30(1) Feet of Pleasure 5.6
Wet and Dirty (direct start) 5.8
Wet and Dirty 5.7
Kiddy Litter 5.2

Drop Zone This is the first area to the left of the main (West) trail.
Happy Ending 5.10
Child Abuse 5.8
Mark it Eight, Dude 5.8 PG, with the "Smokey" extension (P2) 5.9
Fools Rush In 5.9
Fall From Grace A2
Gas Station Fashion A1
The Far Side 5.6

Hummingbird Wall This is the obvious 2-tiered section of rock.
Dwarf Toss 5.8
Tribal Therapy 5.9
Yashua 5.6
Northern Passage, Lower 5.6
Kinetic Flow 5.8
The Warm Up 5.11
Stewart's Ladder 5.10d

Hummingbird Terrace The second pitch to the hummingbird wall climbs.
Northern Passage, Upper 5.4
Senior Moment 4th class
Well Hung 5.6

Main Cliff (West of Bare Buttress) These climbs begin just to the right of the terrace.
Exchange Student 5.10c
French Intern 5.10a
'Je' Mapel Jon Philipe 5.9
Sweet Fucker 5.10-
Shoulder Hop TR
The Head Wall 5.10-
Stop and Fetch it TR
Closeout 5.9
The Martyr 5.8
Good Vibrations 5.10b/c
Boo Coup 5.10- PG
Center Squeeze 5.10b/c
The Darkhorse 5.10a
Tunnel Vision 5.11b
Squeeze Play 5.10c
Naughty and Nice 5.10d
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) 5.10a PG
Day of Atonement 5.10a
Hollow Victory 5.10+
Solid Gold 5.10-
Oracle 5.10c
Wushu Roof 5.10d
The Lonesome Winner 5.10a/b
Freak Freely 5.10b/c
Urbaby's Daddy 5.10a
2Trad4U 5.9
Happy Crake 5.8
Snake Buttress TR
Snake 5.8
White Lightening 5.8

The Bare Buttress This area is marked by the very large Pine with large slabs of fallen rock at it's base.
Bill's Thrill 5.7
The Left Cheek 5.7 PG
Adam's Crack 5.8
The Right Cheek 5.10a PG

Main Cliff (East of Bare Buttress)
Scary as Fuck 5.7
Sweet Surprise 5.7
Sheep Fuckers Delight 5.10
Dulcinea 5.5
Wounded Knee 5.6
Birthday Suprise (65) 5.6
MJ08 5.6
Lizard Locks 5.10b
The Arete 5.11
Introductory Offer 5.9
The Trembling 5.9
The Pin 5.10
Silverdycke 5.7

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

69 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',6],['5.8',9],['5.9',12],['5.10',26],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Farside:
Bill's Thrill   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   Main Cliff
Happy Crake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Main Cliff
Dwarf Toss   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hummingbird Wall and Hummin...
Adam's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Bare Buttress
Mark it Eight, Dude   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Cliff
2Trad4U   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport   Main Cliff
Tribal Therapy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hummingbird Wall and Hummin...
The Darkhorse   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Main Cliff
Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Main Cliff
Sweet Fucker   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Cliff
The Head Wall   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   Main Cliff
Day of Atonement   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad   Main Cliff
Oracle   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad   Main Cliff
Wushu Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Main Cliff
Tunnel Vision   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   Main Cliff
Browse More Classics in Farside

Featured Route For Farside
Super fun roof moves over the bulge and to the rig...

Wushu Roof 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WA : Southwest Cascades : ... : Main Cliff
Start up Lonesome Winner staying left and heading straight up after the second bolt to the obvious and splendid split-level roof. Pull the roof and continue up trending left to the Oracle anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Farside Slideshow Add Photo
4-9-2009. Kevin Rauch (left) and Jim Opdycke
4-9-2009. Kevin Rauch (left) and Jim Opdycke

Comments on Farside Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2014
By Rafe
Aug 22, 2010
Do the routes have bolted anchors?
By bryans
Aug 30, 2010
Hi Rafe. Yes, almost every route has a bolted anchor. Note: Several of the "original developers" were not contacted by Adam Winslow before he posted this on-line guide, which was largely drafted by Bill Coe. The rest of the original developers have been providing information to Tim Olson, who will be including this crag in his forthcoming guide. But until then, Adam's information is more than enough to help you have a fun day at this crag, even if the ratings and gear sizes are slightly off for a few climbs.

Finally, the introductory statements up above are not representative of all of the "original developers." But most of us do share with Bill the belief that most of the potential lines have been either developed or toproped and therefore should not be bolted. If you feel you would like to bolt a new potential line, please follow the near universal ethic of contacting the original developers - most of whom are listed here - and learning about the history of your proposed line before you drill. It is indeed likely that the proposed route has already been toproped and/or led, even if moss and small trees have now grown back. Anyway, have fun out there!

PS - please feel free to PM me if you have any questions about certain routes or just want general beta. Most of the developers (clearly Bill and Adam and myself) believe this area will benefit from extra traffic as moss grows quickly on the neglected routes.
By bryans
Aug 31, 2010
Also: because these routes are listed alphabetically, not left-to-right or right-to-left, I've added comments after the most visible routes that will hopfully allow people to use those few routes as references for finding the others.
By adam winslow
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 2, 2010
Bryan,
With 67 routes, some of which I haven't climbed, of course not everything here is accurate. Feel free to help improve on this sites info with gear notes, pictures, descriptions, etc...

Rafe,
Many of the routes do not have bolted anchors, but utilize the many large trees along the top of the cliff. If you get near the top of a climb and don't see bolts, check the trees for slings and rappel rings. In some cases you may have to 3rd class a short distance to get to them.
By Healyje
Sep 4, 2010
Under no circumstances should anyone park on the north side of Route 14 in the wide shoulder - this is a very active and officially marked semi slow lane for allowing cars to pass them. Parking there will probably get you towed and more than likely cause access problems. Thanks.
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Oct 6, 2010
On 1-Oct-2010 Dana and I visited this cliff for a ˝ day of climbing. We did three routes, Sweet Surprise, Adam’s Crack and Urbaby’s Daddy. Found identifying and finding the routes a bit hard. Please reorder the listing of routes in so it goes west to east or visa-versa OR add a “map”/drawing that identifies the (at least the major) routes.
The routes are short and access to the top of the cliff is easy, making it a great place to learn or teach trad climbing.
By Kev
Oct 11, 2010
Richard. Tim Olson is adding the entire area into his volume 4. Should be coming out soon. It will be everything minus the commentary you see above. All that elitist "I own the rock" junk will be gone.
By Billcoe
Dec 15, 2010
Thanks for laying this out there so nice and sharing it with everyone Adam. As noted above, Tim's book will have this in there as well, hopefully some world class topos that Tim's known for too. Tim's site has a list of places people can get his books, bother them to see if copy's are in yet, should be soon. Here's the link to that site:
portlandrockclimbs.com/portlan...

If anyone doesn't have Tim's Beacon Rock topo yet, consider buying it before it's gone as it's some amazing work that folks have been buying 2 copies of to frame for the wall as artwork: both front and back.
By off white
Dec 20, 2010
Cool, this place really reminds me of the Dropzone, is it nearby?
By bryans
Dec 29, 2010
Offwhite: It's also known as the dropzone.
By Healyje
Jun 13, 2011
PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT.

AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE.
By Chris-Bailey
From: Olympia, WA
Sep 9, 2014
I know almost nothing about the development of the area and it's history, but showed up for a day of climbing with my girlfriend. Just wanted to say how great the climbing was given the minimal traffic the area seems to get for others who come to this page. Many of the routes were starting to become a little overgrown, but the quality of the climbing on the main wall made up for it. All of the anchors appeared to be in good condition and the rock quality was mostly excellent.

-Chris