Discovered about the same time by the untiring explorer Jim Opdycke and located less than a 1/2 mile East down the SR14 road from Ozone. There is anecdotal evidence that some locals had climbed some here in the 70's, although that has been lost to history except for when they showed up and told some climbers this and that this was formerly private land.
One thing which differentiates and makes The Far Side unique and different from The Ozone is the restraint of bolts. Although there are a few bolted routes here and there, it could have been possible to put in a bolted route every few feet. Yet it was desired that this area remain like a more traditional climbing area, where folks could learn and practice with gear. This gives the place a different feel than a bolted area, and it's good spot to develop a "lead head" and learn real technical rock climbing. Please help keep it this way for future climbers and restrict the use of bolts. This place can remain for those who appreciate the deeper and different challenge of natural gear lines, and Ozone for those who seek out bolt clip ups.
The one piece of kit all climbers will benefit from carrying here is a small whisk broom. These can often be had for a buck at the dollar tree stores, so get some extras for your buddies when you're there. If everyone just whisked a bit here and a bit there pretty soon the entire area would be as clean as your kitchen counter....perhaps cleaner.
Farside is near mile post 24 on Washington State Highway 14, slightly east of Ozone on the south side of the highway. Park at the large pullout on the south side of the road at the top of the hill just before a right curve in the road (if heading east). Their is also another smaller pullout just west of the larger one. Their is a trail at each end of the area. An East trail starting from the large pullout, which begins at any number of trails that access a trail at the top of the cliff, head east on this trail until it turns and heads down to the base. Their is also a west trail, more easily accessed from the smaller pullout, but you can also walk west along a guardrail to access this trail from the larger pullout. This trail switchbacks more gently down between the main cliff and the arena of pleasure.
Climb using the crack and large face holds up to a small obvious maple tree where the route eases. Consider clipping a sling high on that to keep the rope running freely. Head up to the large Doug Fir and rap off the ring on the tree. A bolted anchor was considered but rejected for this route. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WA
Hi Rafe. Yes, almost every route has a bolted anchor. Note: Several of the "original developers" were not contacted by Adam Winslow before he posted this on-line guide, which was largely drafted by Bill Coe. The rest of the original developers have been providing information to Tim Olson, who will be including this crag in his forthcoming guide. But until then, Adam's information is more than enough to help you have a fun day at this crag, even if the ratings and gear sizes are slightly off for a few climbs.
Finally, the introductory statements up above are not representative of all of the "original developers." But most of us do share with Bill the belief that most of the potential lines have been either developed or toproped and therefore should not be bolted. If you feel you would like to bolt a new potential line, please follow the near universal ethic of contacting the original developers - most of whom are listed here - and learning about the history of your proposed line before you drill. It is indeed likely that the proposed route has already been toproped and/or led, even if moss and small trees have now grown back. Anyway, have fun out there!
PS - please feel free to PM me if you have any questions about certain routes or just want general beta. Most of the developers (clearly Bill and Adam and myself) believe this area will benefit from extra traffic as moss grows quickly on the neglected routes.
Also: because these routes are listed alphabetically, not left-to-right or right-to-left, I've added comments after the most visible routes that will hopfully allow people to use those few routes as references for finding the others.
Bryan, With 67 routes, some of which I haven't climbed, of course not everything here is accurate. Feel free to help improve on this sites info with gear notes, pictures, descriptions, etc...
Rafe, Many of the routes do not have bolted anchors, but utilize the many large trees along the top of the cliff. If you get near the top of a climb and don't see bolts, check the trees for slings and rappel rings. In some cases you may have to 3rd class a short distance to get to them.
Under no circumstances should anyone park on the north side of Route 14 in the wide shoulder - this is a very active and officially marked semi slow lane for allowing cars to pass them. Parking there will probably get you towed and more than likely cause access problems. Thanks.
On 1-Oct-2010 Dana and I visited this cliff for a ˝ day of climbing. We did three routes, Sweet Surprise, Adam’s Crack and Urbaby’s Daddy. Found identifying and finding the routes a bit hard. Please reorder the listing of routes in so it goes west to east or visa-versa OR add a “map”/drawing that identifies the (at least the major) routes. The routes are short and access to the top of the cliff is easy, making it a great place to learn or teach trad climbing.
Richard. Tim Olson is adding the entire area into his volume 4. Should be coming out soon. It will be everything minus the commentary you see above. All that elitist "I own the rock" junk will be gone.
Thanks for laying this out there so nice and sharing it with everyone Adam. As noted above, Tim's book will have this in there as well, hopefully some world class topos that Tim's known for too. Tim's site has a list of places people can get his books, bother them to see if copy's are in yet, should be soon. Here's the link to that site: www.portlandrockclimbs.com/portland-rock-climbs]]www.portlan>>>
If anyone doesn't have Tim's Beacon Rock topo yet, consider buying it before it's gone as it's some amazing work that folks have been buying 2 copies of to frame for the wall as artwork: both front and back.
PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO APPROACH THE TOP OF ROUTES FROM THE ROAD / UPPER TRAIL - YES, THERE ARE SOME SLINGS ON TREES VISIBLE FROM THE TRAIL UP BY THE ROAD, BUT BY AND LARGE THEY ARE REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPMENT AND NOT TOP ROPES. IN GENERAL THERE ARE NO CLIFFTOP-ACCESSIBLE TOP ROPES AT DZ/FS AND THE ENTIRE AREA AT THE TOP OF THE CLIFF IS EXCEEDINGLY DANGEROUS TO APPROACH FROM ABOVE IF YOU AREN'T A VERY EXPERIENCED CLIMBER AND EVEN THEN YOU SHOULD THINK TWICE ABOUT IT AND WHY YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO DO IT.
AGAIN, PLEASE TAKE THE TRAIL DOWN AND BE AWARE THIS ISN'T AN AREA WHERE YOU CAN SET UP TOP ROPES FROM ABOVE AND THERE ARE ONLY A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BOLTED ROUTES. IF YOU ARE RELATIVELY NEW TO CLIMBING, TO CLIMBING OUTDOORS, OR TO LEADING YOU SHOULD ARRANGE TO COME WITH AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER WHO CAN LEAD ROUTES AND ESTABLISH TOP ROPES IF SO DESIRED OR CONSIDER AN ALTERNATIVE VENUE.