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Luke Kearns on Farniente.
Loosely translated from Italian, Far Niente means doing nothing. However, with its slabby nature, airy feel and wickedly technical moves, climbing this beautiful, old school sport route is hardly nothing.
Solo up 15 feet of grey rock, and move left across a ledge until you are below the first bolt. Balance over the small roof, and levitate past the second bolt and the hardest moves using tiny pebbles, and edges. Although the difficulty eases off past the third bolt, the 5.11 climbing remains devious, slopey, off balance, and super thin.
If you are in the mood to climb a hard slab, Farniente won't disappoint. The rock is impeccable, the moves are fun, the route is stunningly pretty, and the view is unbeatable. Doing nothing is the last thing you will want to do when you see Farniente.
It is located on the SW face of the Green Thumb.
This route is equipped with ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with rap rings. For the more timid, it might be nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. A 50 meter rope is needed to get back to the ground from the anchors.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 8, 2014
Not to be a stickler for details, but....
The name of this climb is 'Far Niente' Two words.