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Green Thumb
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Far Niente 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bobbi Bensman, Paul Piana, Dan Michael, 1989
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Luke Kearns on Farniente.

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Loosely translated from Italian, Far Niente means doing nothing. However, with its slabby nature, airy feel and wickedly technical moves, climbing this beautiful, old school sport route is hardly nothing.

    Solo up 15 feet of grey rock, and move left across a ledge until you are below the first bolt. Balance over the small roof, and levitate past the second bolt and the hardest moves using tiny pebbles, and edges. Although the difficulty eases off past the third bolt, the 5.11 climbing remains devious, slopey, off balance, and super thin.

    If you are in the mood to climb a hard slab, Farniente won't disappoint. The rock is impeccable, the moves are fun, the route is stunningly pretty, and the view is unbeatable. Doing nothing is the last thing you will want to do when you see Farniente.

    Location 

    It is located on the SW face of the Green Thumb.

    Protection 

    This route is equipped with ring bolts and a two bolt anchor with rap rings. For the more timid, it might be nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. A 50 meter rope is needed to get back to the ground from the anchors.


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    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 8, 2014

    Not to be a stickler for details, but....

    The name of this climb is 'Far Niente' Two words.
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