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This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.
Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.
Browse More Classics in Farmington Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Farmington Crag:
Cool Air 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Klingon Arete 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Basket Case 5.7 TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Repent Now or Die 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet
137 lbs of Fury 5.8+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Suck it Up Princess 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
The Era of Tara 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Ryan in a Bikini 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Basket Case 5.7 UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
Pull a small roof while battling a small arete that forces you off balance. There appear to be these little geode crystal type thingies in a layer of the arret. After that, traverse a crack and continue up the fall-line....[more] Browse More Classics in UT