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Farmington Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Farmington Crag  


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Location: 40.9805, -111.8715 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,114
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: spencerparkin on May 22, 2010
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Here's the anchor that is on a boulder perched on ...

Description 

This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.

The Farmington Crag refers collectively to the main crag and the island crags surrounding it. Currently there are no trails and so it's a bit bush-wacky. Be very careful of rock fall! While hiking near the long-wall crag East of the main crag yesterday, I dislodged a massive boulder that went thundering down the hill-side! Seeing it make such destruction as it hurdled down the slope was a sobering reminder of how bad things can go wrong when they do go wrong.

Getting There 

Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Farmington Crag:
Suck it Up Princess   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Ryan in a Bikini   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Farmington Crag

Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Ignore where the rope is running.  That's not the ...

Repent Now or Die 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
This climb fallows the flakes curving from the left and up to the middle. These are fun underclings! Near the top is an overhang with a diving board feature in the way. Don't short change yourself on this climb! Pull the roof! It's tempting to go around it, but I'm going to designate that as off route!I marked the FA as TBD, because I don't think anyone has climbed this before, but having rope-solod it, claiming an FA doesn't seem right. I didn't weight the system so I believe I free-climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Farmington Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan climbing, Eric belaying...one of the hardest ...
Ryan climbing, Eric belaying...one of the hardest ...
View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...
View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...

Comments on Farmington Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 10, 2010
I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers
By Tren-ton
May 8, 2011
What a great hiddin gem right in the back yard of Framington. I feel that its is really well protected all the way around the top. the bottom belay areas still need a little tlc but a fun wall never the lease. It would be nice to know which one was which.