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Farley Ledge Access Situation
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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
May 10, 2010

colin rickert wrote:
Dudemanbro/JulianM, You guys should come climb at Bolton some time. I'd be happy to show you around. I am not being sarcastic either. There's enough climbing in New England to keep everyone happy for a long time to come so no need for trolling. For the record I was at Farley this weekend and had a great time. The townsfolk were super friendly too.

Thanks for the offer, Colin. I've got a friend who took me around some of the Bolton crags a few years back and you've definitely got the good there.

I was just playin' about the access issues at Farley, especially considering that any local will hook you up with info there as long as you're respectful of the parking/access situation.


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By Peter Gill
May 10, 2010

Additional Parking is available in two other places if the main lot is full. Directions and map are available at the Kiosk in main parking lot. Both areas are just off of Rt 2 and require only a slightly longer approach.

1. Old Parking Lot - Briggs Street just east of main lot entrance - Limited to 8 cars - Access to cliffs via M&M trail head directly from lot.

2. Farley Road - opposite Briggs Street is Farley Road. Head south and down hill short distance. Parking is just across the steel bridge that crosses the Millers River. Access to cliffs is via M&M trailhead at old parking lot or walk Rt 2 (caution) to main lot.

Please note both overflow parking areas are on private property. Parking is allowed with their permission. Be respectful of signs and parking area limits and other users. Don't blow it for the rest of us.


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By Colin R
From Ottawa, ON
May 10, 2010
Getting ready to top out....

Peter,

Excellent. Thanks for the additional parking info. Fortunately I scooted into someone's parking spot this weekend as they were pulling out. I am sure I will need it in the future though.

Julian,

I've managed to put a little MP guide to the 82 Crag and Bolton Quarry:

www.mountainproject.com/v/vermont/bolton_area/82_crag/106734>>>
www.mountainproject.com/v/vermont/bolton_area/bolton_quarry/>>>

Let me know if you are ever en route to Vermont. There's so much new stuff that's gone up there in recent years its hard to even begin to post it all. Also, glad to know you have a sense of humor about all this stuff (refreshing). It's easy to forget that we're all just trying to climb a little more often than we can....


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By Greg DeMatteo
From W. Lebanon, NH
May 11, 2010

Farley was one of the first places I climbed at back in 1993 or 1994. We bushwhacked like some of the other people did who have posted in this thread. A while later we found someone who knew more about the place who gave us the low down on parking and access and how not to piss the local residents off. The lesson there is that the the solution to access problems is MORE information, not less. If 2 high school kids in the pre-internet age could find out about Farley and go traipsing around looking for it then I'm afraid that all this "keeping it a secret" is a moot point in 2010. If you post the info, along with a big warning that access is an issue and how to avoid creating more of an issue then you're doing the responsible thing. Anyone who gets that info and creates a problem anyway was almost certainly going to create a problem without your information.


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By Jeff Squire
May 11, 2010

Everything you need to know about Farley, aside from route information, can be found on the WMCC website. The landowner's who own the property where the climbing is located, have asked that we not publish information to their property. We are able to climb at Farley largely because of this understanding and generosity.


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By Colin R
From Ottawa, ON
May 11, 2010
Getting ready to top out....

I think perhaps we might wish to distinguish between a "guide" and a general area map. It does seem responsible to make the parking information available (which thankfully it already is) and a trail map of the area might help too however a full guide with grades and route information is clearly crossing the line of the landowners wishes. The thing with route guides and explanations (especially here on MP) is that people start listing them as 4-star "classics" and "must dos" (I do this myself) and that's when traffic increase becomes a problem. Trade routes start becoming established and from what I encountered this weekend there are loads routes that deserve 4 stars at Farley (oops did I say that?). As soon as people start saying "Dude you have to get on such and such route, it's the best 5-whatever I've been on" that's when I would tend to worry about traffic increase. The question is though will this happen on it's own anyways? Probably yes but since the landowner did specifically request no route guideook (online or otherwise) its only right (and smart) to abide by their wishes.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 22, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

the parking lots are alwyas overflowing and the crag is always packed every given weekedn anyways.

All limiting route info is doing isforcing people to be friendlier and ask their neighboors what the grades are.

its not doing anything to prevent an already very highly traffic area crag.


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By turbotime
From CT
Apr 22, 2013

superkick wrote:
the parking lots are alwyas overflowing and the crag is always packed every given weekedn anyways. All limiting route info is doing isforcing people to be friendlier and ask their neighboors what the grades are. its not doing anything to prevent an already very highly traffic area crag.


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