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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock Proper
Select Route:
Access Route T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Chock stone TR 
Face TR 
Farewell to Arms T,TR 
project, The 
South Face Center TR 
Waimea Arete 
Waimea Wall 

Farewell to Arms 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: N/A
Page Views: 1,494
Submitted By: Ben Logan on Feb 21, 2011

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Farewell to Arms

Description 

A series of several fun boulder problems stacked on top of each other. Overhung jamming and stemming off the ground followed by a series of mantles and slabby face moves. Pumpy finish out of a little alcove.

Location 

South face of Castle Rock proper. Just to the right of the Waimea Wall boulder problem.

Protection 

TR from the metal pole on the summit with long slings (15ft). Could be led with gear. A bolt protects the last move.


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By Brendan Moriarty
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I would rate this much higher than the going rate of 5.10a. Lots of strong, powerful moves required. It gets me breathing heavy. But lots of fun.
By Ross James
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun sequence of bouldery moves to ledges. Don't think it's more than 10a with solid beta. Would be a heady lead though!
By Jackson Yip
From: arlington, ma
Oct 16, 2013

lead it on gear, used a #3 BD C4, a #0.5 BD C4, and a white Tricam for the crack, ran the rest up the ramp to weave around to the top pipe to rap down. really burly start for 10a, very PG-13/R between the top of the crack and the bolt on the headwall about 15 feet up, wouldn't run it out without either a toprope or a better grade to brag about...