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Escape Rock
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Ballbearings Under Foot T 
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Rick Rockwell T 

Farewell Ambassador 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rex Pieper, Keath Nupuf 1/30/95
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Rex Pieper on Sep 29, 2006

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Description 

A three bolt variation off of "Exit Stage Right." Climb the latter route to the first bolt, then traverse left past the crux (a brief section of dark, thin and slightly crumbly rock) to a bolt. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the upper level on excellent steep friction with great clipping stances. From the 3rd new bolt, head slightly right to an inset rock/stance. Continue up slab to a false summit. An ancient 1/4" bolt will be at the top of the slab near the base of another vertical wall. Climb the face above to the left and belay from natural anchors under a summit boulder.

The name bemoans the closing of Ambassador Auditorium in Pasadena, CA. A world-class concert hall where I was the art director at the time.


Location 

Decent is a walkoff to the south, downclimbing a gully to a small tree. Rappel 80' from tree to ground.


Protection 

5 quickdraws
#1-3 Camalot for anchor



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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This would be a better route if the crux wasn't trying to get the second bolt clipped.

By Rex Pieper
Oct 25, 2011

Sorry, but route was put in from the ground up. I had to climb there to place the bolt off of hooks. Sometimes optimal placement isn't possible due to ethics of the day.

And no way this route has an "R" rating.