| Far Rock |
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| | Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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BETA PHOTO: Far Rock, as seen from the top of Mosaic Rock.
Description This seldom-visited little 'dome' hosts a few easy, short trad routes (none of the routes are longer than probably 70 feet, if that). Although it is included in the old-school online guide, none of the current guide books even mention this crag (maybe for good reason; it may not be worth the walk over there, unless you have a strong urge to get far, far from the maddening crowd).
The four routes that are listed in the online guide are (from left to right):
Short N' Sweet (5.7): A short low angle face leads to a blocky finish. Didn't look too interesting.
Left or Right (5.8): Fun mix of crack and face.
Look Mom, No Friends (5.7): A sweet fist crack, but sadly too short.
Look Mom, Friends (5.8): We weren't able to confidently identify this climb. At the north end of the east wall, there's a couple of possible crack or face climbs. Where a dilapitated wooden fence leans against the wall, there's a fallen tree just a little farther north. Left of the fallen tree, there's a couple of jugs that may be this route, but looked too short to be a real climb (anyone know about this one?).
Getting There From the Sundeck Wall/Aspen Alley area, head due west across the slickrock for about 400 meters.
Featured Route For Far Rock
Look Mom, No Friends 5.7 NM : Taos Area : ... : Far Rock
Follow the fist crack as it trends left up the face, then hang a hard right and finish up the ramp. Mostly <=5.6 climbing except the bulge at the start, which is easily protected. This would be a decent beginner trad lead.This description is based on the 1981 guide. The 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide also has a route called 'Look Mom, No Friends', but it's in a slightly different location and seems to more closely m... [more] Browse More Classics in NM
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Apr 1, 2009
| It looks like one of the admins chopped my description here. May I ask why? |
By Fritz Devendorf
Jun 20, 2012
| Could this be "Look Mom, Friends". We top roped it and I thought it was great, harder than 5.8.
| I call this Duck-tail Elvis. Hang on to his collar moving up over his ear and then eventually to the front of his duck-tail hare dew.
Submitted By: Fritz Devendorf on Jun 20, 2012
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