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Eagle Rock
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Far Left 

Far Left 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: Tristan B on Oct 21, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Mike 1/2 way up.

Description 

This is the far left route where the only anchors we saw were at. The route is pretty clean. watch for small rocks to break, all the big holds were solid. There was some chossy dirt to the right for most of the route. There are 2 little vertical sections you have to pull over and up back to the slabby part and these felt like 5.8 moves. There are also some reachy moves and lots of mantles and hand foot matches because I used the bigger holds and avoided the small ones that could pop. But most of the climbing is fun 5.6 moves.


Location 

The route is on the far left. Belay behind the trees so you don't get hit by rocks.


Protection 

8 bolts to the top, it's a little runout between bolts Since it is over 120 feet there's a belay station 1/2 way up to rap down from the top w/ 1 60 m rope. A 70 m might make it all the way down from the top anchors.



Photos of Far Left Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay station
Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay statio...
8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
BETA PHOTO: 8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bolts below this.
BETA PHOTO: Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bo...
Josh about 1/2 way up.
Josh about 1/2 way up.
Climbing over the 134.
Climbing over the 134.
bro starting up far left
bro starting up far left
Comments on Far Left Add Comment
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By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2013

I recently bolted this route. I did it a few times on TR and then apartment complex behind Eagle Rock built a big death fence you'd have to climb over. So instead of dealing with that and trespassing I bolted this line. The rock is chossy, but this line is more solid than some stuff at Texas Canyon or Echo Cliffs. I put a belay station in 1/2 way so you can multipitch it for more fun and so you can rap off with 1 60m rope. All the anchors and bolts are bomber 3/8 except for the very last one which is an old rusty 1/4. But I think that bolt was used to TR the route and once you climb past it, it's really easy to get to the anchors.

By TacoDelRio
From: The Ditch and the hood
Jan 27, 2013

Sweet.