Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eagle Rock
Select Route:
Far Left S,TR 

Far Left 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,770
Submitted By: Tristan B on Oct 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
bro starting up far left

Description 

This is the far left route where the only anchors we saw were at. The route is pretty clean. watch for small rocks to break, all the big holds were solid. There was some chossy dirt to the right for most of the route. There are 2 little vertical sections you have to pull over and up back to the slabby part and these felt like 5.8 moves. There are also some reachy moves and lots of mantles and hand foot matches because I used the bigger holds and avoided the small ones that could pop. But most of the climbing is fun 5.6 moves.

Location 

The route is on the far left. Belay behind the trees so you don't get hit by rocks.

Protection 

8 bolts to the top, it's a little runout between bolts Since it is over 120 feet there's a belay station 1/2 way up to rap down from the top w/ 1 60 m rope. A 70 m might make it all the way down from the top anchors.


Photos of Far Left Slideshow Add Photo
Josh about 1/2 way up.
Josh about 1/2 way up.
Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay statio...
Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay statio...
Mike 1/2 way up.
Mike 1/2 way up.
Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bo...
BETA PHOTO: Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bo...
8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
BETA PHOTO: 8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
Climbing over the 134.
Climbing over the 134.
On the way down
On the way down

Comments on Far Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2013

I recently bolted this route. I did it a few times on TR and then apartment complex behind Eagle Rock built a big death fence you'd have to climb over. So instead of dealing with that and trespassing I bolted this line. The rock is chossy, but this line is more solid than some stuff at Texas Canyon or Echo Cliffs. I put a belay station in 1/2 way so you can multipitch it for more fun and so you can rap off with 1 60m rope. All the anchors and bolts are bomber 3/8 except for the very last one which is an old rusty 1/4. But I think that bolt was used to TR the route and once you climb past it, it's really easy to get to the anchors.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jan 27, 2013

Sweet.
By adam paz
Mar 30, 2015

Tried it and was kinda spooky. Run out but easy. Man you really don't want one of the little nubs to give out of you cause that will cheese grate grind u really bad. A 70m WILL NOT make it to the bottom from the top. Learned the hard way. Had to down climb cause the half way of a 70m is at the rusty bolt and I was not about to lower off that, then use a bail beaner and lower off 1 bolt which was solid but still. Prob would have been ok to go to the the top and get lowered to the belay station but with the FWY noise there was no communication possible so my belayer didn't let me go higher when she reached half way point and I couldn't tell her to go ahead and let me up lower etc.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!