Far from the Madding Crowd
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|A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>|
This route begins on a blackish face below a small tree and a flat block that is being held up by the tree.
Climb the face up left of the tree and block, then up the face to the small roof. Climb through the roof at a small weakness in the middle and continue up to the belay/rap tree.
The gear for this route is PG13/R, depending on how creative you are. Excellent face climbing and easily set up as a TR after leading Punch and Judy or Akid.
This is an obvious line on the left side of the clean slab at the far end of the Nears. Just right of Punch and Judy.
Standard Gunks rack + red ballnutz.
|Comments on Far from the Madding Crowd
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Bring lots of small cams you and can double up and make it less scary. Good moves on the climb.
From: New York, NY
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Apr 9, 2012
I led Punch... (5.5) and we TR'd this. Fun route with a couple thin moves. Definitely within the 5.8 grade. Stay slightly right under the roof to gain a good hand, then pull the roof on the left. If you cheat too far left coming up the face you're missing out on the best moves on the climb IMO.
May 13, 2013
The new guidebook recommends gear including red and gold ballnuts. The party next to us just so happened to have a red ballnut, which is very necessary to keep the climb PG. I was unable to find other good gear where the red ballnut went. I did not bring the gold and was able to fiddle in an ok purple c3. Another great route on this wall.