Fun roof pull - feels 10A when the draws are hung. Cool roof pull that feels easier than the 2nd crux of Armed & Dangerous - the hand is better than it looks when laid back and the feet is pretty solid if you spot it in advance. It was a bit reachy for short people like me (I have a reach of a 5.2 person) to hang the crux draw. We did this + M. Falcon linkup but getting to the belay bolt at Millennium Falcon was really dirty at this point - but it seems like a logical 1st pitch to it.
Hard to tell from the photo; but, it may be another Becansoll classic, "Arugula, Arugula...."
A little background: "Arugula" is a vegetable frequently used as a salad green and is popular in Italian cuisine. It's also known as "rocket" or "rucola," depending how pretentious the restaurant serving the salad is...
I believe argula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic.
As for the grade; it felt easier than "Far from Feral" but harder than "Milktoast Falcon."
It's an independent line (it doesn't squeeze any pre-existing routes), the falls are safe (there's no trees to hit) and it's clean (the holds don't fall off when you grab them...)
Hope this helps!
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 10, 2012
"I believe arugula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic"
Wishful thinking. Sativa merely is the adjectival part of the name meaning cultivated. Arugula is in the order of Brassicaceae, while Cannabis is in the order of Rosales. You would have to go back to the clade Eudicot to have them in the same group.. You should know that IBolt.
Mark, you caught me: I was just having a little "fun with botany."
The "Latin name" of Arugula is Eruca sativa. If i remember correctly, "Eruca" is from Latin meaning some sort of cabbage and "sativa" means something like "cultivated" or "grown."
And perhaps, I was having mild hallucinations. (I will say that many of the other responses in these Rumney forums have seemed a little "hallucinogenic" lately...)
Years ago, I had an after-dinner liquor made by an older Italian gentleman that was made with arugula. It was like "lemoncello" but with a pepper taste instead of lemon... He served it ice cold.
I believe almost everything else I wrote is basically true....
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Sep 24, 2012 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
Short video of the crux.
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Sep 26, 2012 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4.
By S. Neoh Oct 27, 2012 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
Finally did the route shown in the photo that Ming took and posted. Yeah, getting the draw into bolt#4 (on the initial steep head wall) requires a good stretch. I did the route a body length or less to the left of this route a few months ago. I thought it is quite enjoyable and maybe 1 letter grade easier than this one.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Mar 17, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Very fun route, and a fine addition to the Armed and Dangerous area. Helps spread out the hoards a bit! I thought the crux was fairly short, and not as hard as "Armed and Dangerous". Felt more in line with the 9+ at Bonsai.
Just climbed this route the other weekend. It was a lot of fun, but the clip right out of the roof is funky. I took a take on that bolt and as I weighted the draw it would open up my carabiner gate. Not the most encouraging sight on what I felt to be the crux clip. My gate was facing right, so maybe if it had been left all would have been good. Just a heads up.
There's a mono undercling I used that made it much easier to get your right hand onto the layback hold to clip the crux bolt. Plus, by using it, it's like you're giving the finger to the rock.
By Peter Jackson From: Rumney, NH Jul 2, 2014 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
Not sure what I did differently, but I was able to clip the bolt in the roof from below without touching the crux holds. I stood further left and did have to downclimb a step to set up correctly for the crux. I'm 5'11" with a neutral index.
A 5'5" tall lady I was climbing with was also able to touch the bolt from below, but for her it was a stretch.
Maybe a body position issue for those having trouble?
All that said: wow, the crux killed me. Very hard for me to get the right position to make it go without struggling. I climbed it hips left and hips right: about the same amount of strenuousness both ways. I gotta lose weight!