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 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
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Far From Feral 
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Maria's Variation 
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Metamorphosis 
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Toxic Gumbo 
White Buttress, The 

Far From Feral 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Keith Becansoll 2011
Page Views: 1,240
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2012
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Jenny after pulling the crux roof with Chris belay...

Description 

One of the new heavily cleaned routes on the right side of A+d wall. This one is reported to still be a bit dusty but getting better with traffic, cleaning and weather.

Climb a tough roof to gain easier climbing to the anchor. An easier variation is to be added to the right making a nice moderate climb.


Location 

Start at the big block that sits in the middle of the trail between A+D and Ali Babbler. Climb out the crux roof to an easier finish.


Protection 

Bolts to anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 5, 2012

Ah... I have been wondering about these! Looks like fun!

By keith b
Apr 5, 2012

Hey Lee,

Thanks for posting the information.

Fa's were 2011.

This one is called Far From Feral, (not form).

kb

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 6, 2012

oops sorry for the typos... i fixed it up...

By Ming
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun roof pull - feels 10A when the draws are hung. Cool roof pull that feels easier than the 2nd crux of Armed & Dangerous - the hand is better than it looks when laid back and the feet is pretty solid if you spot it in advance. It was a bit reachy for short people like me (I have a reach of a 5.2 person) to hang the crux draw. We did this + M. Falcon linkup but getting to the belay bolt at Millennium Falcon was really dirty at this point - but it seems like a logical 1st pitch to it.

By Gunks
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 9, 2012

There is a bolt line on climber's left of Far from Ferel. Anyone has any info on this climb?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2012

In between Feral and Toxic Gumbo?

By Gunks
From: Gunks, NY
Aug 10, 2012

The bolt line is just to the left of Far from Feral. If you look at the picture of FFF the new route starts on the slab about 7-10 feet to the left of FFF and goes through the widest part of the roof.

By iBolt
Aug 10, 2012

Hard to tell from the photo; but, it may be another Becansoll classic, "Arugula, Arugula...."

A little background: "Arugula" is a vegetable frequently used as a salad green and is popular in Italian cuisine. It's also known as "rocket" or "rucola," depending how pretentious the restaurant serving the salad is...

I believe argula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic.

As for the grade; it felt easier than "Far from Feral" but harder than "Milktoast Falcon."

It's an independent line (it doesn't squeeze any pre-existing routes), the falls are safe (there's no trees to hit) and it's clean (the holds don't fall off when you grab them...)

Hope this helps!

iBolt

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 10, 2012

"I believe arugula is related to sativa and may be slightly hallucinogenic"

Wishful thinking. Sativa merely is the adjectival part of the name meaning cultivated. Arugula is in the order of Brassicaceae, while Cannabis is in the order of Rosales. You would have to go back to the clade Eudicot to have them in the same group.. You should know that IBolt.

By iBolt
Aug 10, 2012

Mark, you caught me: I was just having a little "fun with botany."

The "Latin name" of Arugula is Eruca sativa. If i remember correctly, "Eruca" is from Latin meaning some sort of cabbage and "sativa" means something like "cultivated" or "grown."

And perhaps, I was having mild hallucinations. (I will say that many of the other responses in these Rumney forums have seemed a little "hallucinogenic" lately...)

Years ago, I had an after-dinner liquor made by an older Italian gentleman that was made with arugula. It was like "lemoncello" but with a pepper taste instead of lemon... He served it ice cold.

I believe almost everything else I wrote is basically true....

iBolt

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Short video of the crux.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I am going to make one suggestion, and maybe it's bad, but: I think there should be one more bolt between bolts 3 and 4. I had to clip bolt 4 from the crux hold, and had I fallen from there I would have hit the slab below pretty hard. In the video I posted I can clip the rope if the draw is already there, but I am also 6 feet tall with a positive ape index. I would suggest, in the interest of safety, another bolt a foot or 2 below bolt #4.

By S. Neoh
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Finally did the route shown in the photo that Ming took and posted. Yeah, getting the draw into bolt#4 (on the initial steep head wall) requires a good stretch.
I did the route a body length or less to the left of this route a few months ago. I thought it is quite enjoyable and maybe 1 letter grade easier than this one.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Very fun route, and a fine addition to the Armed and Dangerous area. Helps spread out the hoards a bit! I thought the crux was fairly short, and not as hard as "Armed and Dangerous". Felt more in line with the 9+ at Bonsai.

By Andrew A.
From: Douglas, MA
Jul 7, 2013

Just climbed this route the other weekend. It was a lot of fun, but the clip right out of the roof is funky. I took a take on that bolt and as I weighted the draw it would open up my carabiner gate. Not the most encouraging sight on what I felt to be the crux clip. My gate was facing right, so maybe if it had been left all would have been good. Just a heads up.

By Lundy Bancroft
Jul 28, 2013

Does FFF share anchors with The Maltese (or Milquetoast) Falcon?

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Jul 28, 2013

They each have their own anchors.

By liam
Aug 5, 2013

There's a mono undercling I used that made it much easier to get your right hand onto the layback hold to clip the crux bolt. Plus, by using it, it's like you're giving the finger to the rock.