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Gill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cleveland Route 
Acid Rock 
Blood Alcohol 
Boy Scout 
Fantasy 
Gill's Crack 
Gill's Nose 
Ice 
In Search of the Lost Libido 
Peyote Blues 
Psilocybin 
Slut For Punishment 
Spine, The 
Twin Cracks 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh 

Fantasy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Mr. Mix on Aug 16, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Fantasy follows the right side of block

Description 

Start on the face 8 feet from right corner. Climb up and slightly right to a side pull directly under the roof. The next 8 feet is difficult and thin climbing heading up and slightly to the right. Easier climbing will take you back to the left finishing at the notch in top of wall. A very technical and sustained climb. This is a really nice but overlooked route with a lot of climbing for a short distance.


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By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 16, 2009

Sven's guide book lists Fantasy as a 5.9. I am not sure that the line I posted is the line that was originally intended (the guide book is a bit ambiguous). However, the climb posted seemed like the logical line to follow and was quite fun, technical, and sustained. At least to me though the climb felt much harder than 5.9.

By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

No way 5.10b - 5.9 and easier than Upper D. May feel like 5.10 for shorter people. A fun, slightly overhanging jug haul

By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 21, 2009

Jug Haul? I'm pretty sure we are not doing the same line. I don't hit a jug until the last third of the climb and at 5' 10" I'm not the tallest climber but I thought I sandbagged this at 10b. Paul, when do you traverse to the right? I'm probably off route.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Definitely 5.9. Mike, you were probably off route.