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 ADVANCED
Gill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cleveland Route TR 
Acid Rock TR 
Blood Alcohol TR 
Boy Scout T,TR 
Fantasy TR 
Gill's Cheek T,TR 
Gill's Crack T,TR 
Gill's Nose TR 
Ice TR 
In Search of the Lost Libido TR 
Peyote Blues TR 
Psilocybin TR 
Slut For Punishment TR 
Spine, The T,TR 
Twin Cracks T 
Weasels Ripped My Flesh TR 

Fantasy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Mr. Mix on Aug 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Fantasy follows the right side of block

Description 

Start on the face 8 feet from right corner. Climb up and slightly right to a side pull directly under the roof. The next 8 feet is difficult and thin climbing heading up and slightly to the right. Easier climbing will take you back to the left finishing at the notch in top of wall. A very technical and sustained climb. This is a really nice but overlooked route with a lot of climbing for a short distance.

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By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 16, 2009

Sven's guide book lists Fantasy as a 5.9. I am not sure that the line I posted is the line that was originally intended (the guide book is a bit ambiguous). However, the climb posted seemed like the logical line to follow and was quite fun, technical, and sustained. At least to me though the climb felt much harder than 5.9.
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No way 5.10b - 5.9 and easier than Upper D. May feel like 5.10 for shorter people. A fun, slightly overhanging jug haul
By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Aug 21, 2009

Jug Haul? I'm pretty sure we are not doing the same line. I don't hit a jug until the last third of the climb and at 5' 10" I'm not the tallest climber but I thought I sandbagged this at 10b. Paul, when do you traverse to the right? I'm probably off route.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Definitely 5.9. Mike, you were probably off route.