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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
Page Views: 8,512
Submitted By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Description 

The obvious handcrack that heads strait up the Fantasy roof area.

Head up hand crack to ledge just under roof to the chain anchors.

Double rope setup would be nice on this route.

Location 

Crack that runs up center of Fantasy area (Endless)

Protection 

Trad.


Photos of Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
The amazing Fantasy
The amazing Fantasy
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
Bottom part of Fantasy
Bottom part of Fantasy

Comments on Fantasy Add Comment
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By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
May 28, 2008

Beautiful handcrack. Highly recommended for those looking to practice jams in a perfect, relatively low angle splitter crack. Crux is probably the first 15 feet over the block.

Yes, there are chains about 70 feet up; rap off a 60 meter rope, or run to the top of the cliff up some 5.10 moves.

Double ropes are not needed and would provide little benefit over a single line (other than peace of mind).
By DaveB
Sep 22, 2008

Chain anchors now?...that's nice. Years ago, I remember rapping off an old fixed hex and something else (I forget)...kinda scary.
By Chris Hillios
From: Newburyport, MA
Oct 27, 2008

Thanks to Kris Gorny for the FA info on this route.

I have updated the description to add the chain anchors. (agreed, this was not there when I did it.)

-Chris
By Chase Roskos
From: Golden, CO
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Four stars for the grade. Very good jamming up the crack.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

1st pitch is super cool. If you top out the way the first ascentionists did, you'll feel like the first ascentionist. It seems nobody goes this way and I can't say I blame them. The awesome part of this route is the first pitch. The second pitch sucks. It's about 5.5 with a finger crack dihedral to top out and lots of dirt, lichen, and moss to contend with, but there's a good tree to belay your second from if you choose to do this.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 9, 2012

Absolute, pure fun.
By ClimberStu
Sep 23, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed Fantasy (first pitch only) and was not disappointed - a spectacular route! The beginning is challenging, however, committing moves remain. Fantasy may be a little difficult if you're used to face climbing like me, but that's tempered by the opportunity for pro on the route. All in all, in my opinion the 5.8 rating was fair even if it felt a little harder for me. From what I remember, I used three #1 cams on the second half of the climb alone. I also used multiple .5's and .75's on the route, and, at least one #2 was helpful for me. That being said, it looked like there could be placements all over the range from small to big. Bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch.

I think this is a four star route, but other quality 5.8 and 5.9 climbing in the area may be hard to find.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 23, 2014

I disagree with the last sentence. There are several good 5.9 gear routes along that particular section (from Snake Buttress to Undeserved) of Endless Wall. Just off the top of my head, The Grafenberg Crack is decent, What a Jam is good, and Roy's Lament is also good. Two Step Arete is ok, not classic but definitely worth climbing if you dig that range (I do). Also, don't miss Black and Tan. It's .10a, but it's super good, worth doing, secure stances and small but bomber gear. I'm sure if I perused the guidebook, I could find much more. There's certainly enough to keep the 5.9 gear plugger busy for a full day. But even if there wasn't, Fantasy is deserving of its four stars and worth the trip alone.