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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
Page Views: 8,054
Submitted By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...


The obvious handcrack that heads strait up the Fantasy roof area.

Head up hand crack to ledge just under roof to the chain anchors.

Double rope setup would be nice on this route.


Crack that runs up center of Fantasy area (Endless)



Photos of Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
The amazing Fantasy
The amazing Fantasy

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By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
May 28, 2008

Beautiful handcrack. Highly recommended for those looking to practice jams in a perfect, relatively low angle splitter crack. Crux is probably the first 15 feet over the block.

Yes, there are chains about 70 feet up; rap off a 60 meter rope, or run to the top of the cliff up some 5.10 moves.

Double ropes are not needed and would provide little benefit over a single line (other than peace of mind).
By DaveB
Sep 22, 2008

Chain anchors now?...that's nice. Years ago, I remember rapping off an old fixed hex and something else (I forget)...kinda scary.
By Chris Hillios
From: Newburyport, MA
Oct 27, 2008

Thanks to Kris Gorny for the FA info on this route.

I have updated the description to add the chain anchors. (agreed, this was not there when I did it.)

By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Four stars for the grade. Very good jamming up the crack.
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

1st pitch is super cool. If you top out the way the first ascentionists did, you'll feel like the first ascentionist. It seems nobody goes this way and I can't say I blame them. The awesome part of this route is the first pitch. The second pitch sucks. It's about 5.5 with a finger crack dihedral to top out and lots of dirt, lichen, and moss to contend with, but there's a good tree to belay your second from if you choose to do this.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 9, 2012

Absolute, pure fun.