Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
Page Views: 9,961
Submitted By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start.

Description 

The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.

15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.

A second pitch, if you want to top out (usually dirty from runoff) moves up and right from the comfy ledge below the bolted anchor and goes at roughly 5.5.

Location 

Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.

If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.

Protection 

Takes everything from .5 to 4. You may want multiples in the 1 and 2 sizes. Hexes work good in this too. Bolted anchor at the top of the "first pitch".


Photos of Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
The amazing Fantasy
The amazing Fantasy
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
Bottom part of Fantasy
Bottom part of Fantasy

Comments on Fantasy Add Comment
Show which comments
By gio92
From: Easton, PA
May 4, 2015

I've found that the gear is more in the #1 or #.75 range, it really isn't a #2 crack.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!