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Fantasy Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica 
Black and Tan 
Blackhappy 
Doce Doe 
Erotica 
Fantasy 
Fantasy Face 
Mr. Fantasy 
New Fangled Dangle 
Riddle 
Stick, The 
Tide, The 
Two-Step Arete 
Virgin Thing 

Fantasy Area 


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Location: 38.05563, -81.0557 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,302
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
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Description 

The Fantasy Area is home to some of the most classic lines at Endless Wall including must do routes like Aesthetica, Erotica, Black & Tan, Black Happy, The Stick, And the beutiful splitter crack Fantasy. It starts getting shade around 1 to 2 pm. The rock here is of the finest quality at the Gorge, with many beutiful orange and black streaks reminiscent of same kind in Austrailia's Mount Arapiles. Enjoy!


Getting There 

You can hike up river from the Honey Mooners' Ladder or just rap in from a station off the trail above Endless. This station is below an obvious overlook of the river. It is not marked by a sign, and requires a full 60 meter rope. Be careful and make sure your ropes reach the ground.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fantasy Area:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Two-Step Arete   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Doce Doe   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 100'   
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
New Fangled Dangle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 90'   
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mr. Fantasy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 50'   
The Stick   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Erotica   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Blackhappy   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Fantasy Area

Featured Route For Fantasy Area
Aesthetica

Aesthetica 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Fantasy Area
This route is outstanding! If you do 5.11c, do this route! Start by climbing straight up on vertical rock to reach a bulge. From here, diagonal up and right following very chalked holds aiming for a 1 ft wide ledge about 20 ft up from the bulge. This section is the crux. From this ledge continue up and right for a few moves and then it begins to diagonal up and left toward the shuts. Although the crux is over once you reach the ledge, there's still a move that will get your attention with t...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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