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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

Fantasy Face 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Harmon
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2008

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Description 

This route can be a bit dirty if it hasn't been climbed in a while, however it has some fun moves. This can also be easily top roped from the anchors above Fantasy. To lead this route, many of the more strenuous moves are above the bolts and off to the side of them. To start, climb up a broken crack system gain an open book of sorts to reach the 2nd bolt. From here head up and slightly right over some strenuous thin face moves to reach a nice jug below the 3rd bolt (crux). From here, diagonal up and left passing 3 more bolts with slab moves. The last bolt is pretty far from the previous bolt, however the climbing in this section is significantly easier.


Location 

Start about 10 ft to the left of the start of Fantasy.


Protection 

6 bolts, shuts.



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By Joel Longo
Mar 28, 2010

The bolts were replaced summer of 2009. As of then the anchors are now the anchors used for Fantasy.