A hard, crimpy, face climb just right of the Double Chin (5.6) crack.... Climb up the blankish face staying right of the crack.... A few big moves between bad holds is the crux, coming at about 1/3 height....
This is a fun route, but the lack of decent protection in the crux sucks 'cause I want to lead it.... Maybe some day I'll find some small gear and headpoint it...But enough about me...Enjoy it....
5 feet right of Double Chin....
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
May 31, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
There is a little smallish gear under the underclings at the bottom, but there is none after that, so no one ever leads it due to the disasterous fall from the crux, or above.
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Jun 17, 2007
FF has been led and I've even witnessed a ground fall from just below the hoizontals at the top when a leader got too nervous to commit to the top out... Ouch!
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 4, 2008
FF has been soloed too. To solo it is, one could argue, no more reckless than to lead it. It is a fantastic route. Other places in the world, a climb this good and hard would have bolts on it. Let's hear it for New England ethics.