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Poland Hill
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Unsorted Routes:

Fantasia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,434
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Nov 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Izak showing some professional wide crack techniqu...
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Description 

On the Rat Brain next to Kim is a proud fatty. This has got to be one of the hardest 9s I've ever seen. Sustained with a tricky pod fairly low that is hard to get gear into(I wish Wild Country made a #7 Friend), but it is possible to toprope if you want practice suffering.


Protection 

Lots of fatties.



Photos of Fantasia Slideshow Add Photo
Izak getting a hand/fist stack.  How many 11 year olds do you know that can hand/fist stack?
Izak getting a hand/fist stack. How many 11 year ...
Fantasia. <br />August, 2010.
Fantasia.
August, 2010.
Alexis Scott on Phantasia
Alexis Scott on Phantasia
Getting into the meat of the climb.
Getting into the meat of the climb.
Margaret making her way up Fantasia, August, 2005
Margaret making her way up Fantasia, August, 2005
Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in the middle of the climb.
Rick Sanders just getting to the easier section in...
BETA PHOTO
My husband, Mark, leading some of the easier parts of Fantasia.  What an awesome climb!  Worth spending all that money on the big cams.
My husband, Mark, leading some of the easier parts...
One of my first leads my first year in the Woo.
One of my first leads my first year in the Woo.
Stuck....
Stuck....
Comments on Fantasia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2012
By Robert Stetler
Dec 11, 2001

Totally agree on the #7!!!!! This is another one of those famous routes credited to my earlier stage of learning to climb. I watched my friend Kevin suffer and bleed on this with nothing bigger as far as cams than a #3.5 camalot and no big bros. I think we had a set of curved hexes. But once you're in the crack your in. there's no escape.....

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

In July of 2002 (7/5/02) this crack was pretty full of birdy doo. I wanted to climb it, but after having a good look, decided that it was not important to me.

By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Sep 2, 2003

Sweet offwidth. I'd recomend two #5 camalots unless you can get a #4.5 in at the beginning.

By Michael Kullman
Sep 2, 2003

THRUTCH FEST. Eat your Wheaties before getting on this beast ;-)

By L. Hamilton
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It's pretty and it's pure, with views out over the range. This was my favorite route at Vedauwoo back in passive tube-chock days.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 22, 2004

I think Mr. Bubb is thinking of Skull. This is a clean, crack with no bird doo.A classic moderate ow.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I did end up doing the route in 5/15/2004. The Anon poster is correct- it was clean of PooPoo at that time. I know wasn't thinking of Skull when I said that though, I think in 2002 there was poopoo. Skull is not on this section of rock & I checked it out independantly on another occasion. Skull was closed this summer by a handwritten "raptor" note at the base.In 2004, I found Fantasia was a decent route, strenuous, and unprotected down low without tubes/big-bros, due to it's very large size starting off. Pretty fun overall.

By Danny
Oct 3, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route! The crux at the beginning does protect with small cams in the horizontal crack, just bring some runners. This gives you pro at your waist for pulling into the crack. Be sure not to blow your big gear too early like me or you'll be faced with a big runout.

By EMT
May 16, 2008

Great route. I got to follow Trever on this last weekend and thought it was one of the best offwidths I'd climbed. 4 #5s and a #4 seemed to be right for the gear.

By taimi
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

When we went up it (5/30/08), there was a fair amount of dried blood on the rock, testifying to the Total Thrutchfest nature of the route. As so often the case at Vedauwoo, getting into the blasted crack was the crux for me--but I'm short, and that can make a difference. Once in the crack, it's a great offwidth, truly a lot of fun. I didn't lead it, so can't testify to gear....

By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Jan 20, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Just wanted to thank whoever left a BD #6 on this route a couple of years ago, I have enjoyed it immensely!

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 5, 2011

Probably one of the best fatties I have done at Vedauwoo! Just enough thin crimps in the crack and edging feet on the outside to make it a solid 5.9. A small piece protects the very beginning, after which you can throw in a #6 C4 to protect the initial thrash. I wish I had another #6 about halfway up...besides that, a #5, a bunch of #4's and even a #3 C4 came in handy.

By Scott Coffin
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 26, 2012

VERY fun climb! Sent this fat baby in the middle of a thunderstorm - the rain didn't affect the climb whatsoever. Classic 5.9 offwidth testpiece.