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East Wall
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Bear's Reach 
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East Crack 
East Wall 
Fandango 
Fantasia 
Far East 
Fear No Evil 
Haystack 
Labor of Love 
Line, The 
Out to Lunge 
Pigs on the Wing 
Pop Bottle 
Preparation H 
Psychedelic Tree 
Scimitar 
Unnamed 

Fantasia 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Royal Robbins, Ken Wilson 1973
Page Views: 3,998
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 30, 2003
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Patrick Haley on pitch one of 'Fantasia'
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Description 

This route is located about 50 feet left of the East Crack(5.8), and about 75 feet right of the East Corner (5.10d).The East Crack is the largest Crack system on the left sideof the East Wall, and heads straight up for the first twopitches, and then leans right as seen from the trail below.

To find this climb, look for a very featured slab thatcontinues up the face to a diagonal roof. The diagonal roofstarts at the ground, and works upwards until it meets thisroute about 50 feet off the ground. This route headsdirectly up the middle of the slab over a corner in the roof.This route deserves at LEAST an s rating, as there are somebalancy and commiting moves a long ways up from any placedprotection. On top of that, you can't place your first prountil 50+ feet into the route, though the bottom section ispretty simple.

Pitch 1:

From the start of the route, head up over this roof,work up to another small roof, and then over to the first bolted anchor, about140 feet up.

Pitch #2:

This shorter pitch is probably the simplest pitch on theroute, and as defintately the best protected. From the firstbelay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads to the second bolted belay station.

Pitch #3:

This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock, thoughthe last 40 - 50 feet are pretty licheny. Climb up to alarge roof, and find your way over. Ascend stright up theface to the large rock pile directly upslope from the roof. Find a way up this rock pile, and use a crack or tree tobelay the rest of your party.


Protection 

up to 2.5". Bring long slings, you will need themon almost every placement.



Photos of Fantasia Slideshow Add Photo
The first pro is under that roof with the horizontal crack
The first pro is under that roof with the horizont...
There is great protection here
There is great protection here
Comments on Fantasia Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

This climb used to be 5.8 in the old guide. Also, we used tied off knobs on the crux...

Fantastic route if you are into "the journey"...

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 6, 2009

I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt.

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I'll go with the 5.8 rating. It's more mental than hard.

By broppler
From: Oakland
Jun 7, 2011

Im with Bob. The very best route at the leap.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jun 18, 2011

A great route for sure, but not the best by a long shot. The leap has so many obscure, less traveled, great lines it makes ones head spin.

By Ima Fred Knot
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Jun 21, 2011

Do tell, Salamanizer

By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 11, 2011

The route description on this page strikes me as next to useless, although maybe any would be. From the corner at the end of the 5.6R dike climb, you do a wild hand traverse to the left. After that, I'm not sure because I drifted too far to the left and wound up at the bolted belay for Fear No Evil (there's a bolt about 30 above). Did the second pitch of Fear, which was great. The last not so great, so I ended up escaping to the corner system to the left.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 19, 2011

Michael: How can I improve this beta? I assume you're thinking my description of the first pitch is a little too vague, is this correct?

By Joe Huggins
From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
Feb 9, 2012

I did this,finally,about '95, with my wife.A lot of folks here may be unaware that Fantasia is the route that Royal Robbins writes about in the last chapter of Advanced Rockcraft.All the time on that first pitch,the memory of the terror he described in finessing that slab section was playing in my memory.Many years earlier,I did Roofer Madness with none other than John Rosholt.I think his main motive was because of the name,but for me, as a CO climber,that was a stellar route.

By verticalworldtraveler
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 16, 2013

Climbed this route 9/24/13. After doing most of the easier classics at the Leap, finally got around to this one and it didn't disappoint! As for Pitch 3, the piton shown above the belay is gone and this section appears quite unprotected. I climbed up and down it a bit, finally coming back to the belay and heading over to the right side 5.10a/b variation. For this there is an obvious rusty ring piton at 3 o clock from the belay, then head straight up on slab, passing a small roof to the next gear ~30 ft above the piton. Its all there, but very exciting. I will have to go back and send the original 5.8 lieback sans piton now that I have done this.