Fanning the Flame  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet FA:  Chris Weidner, solo New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Chris Weidner on May 14, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

"Fanning the Flame" is located on a small, steep cliff 80 feet downhill from the North Side of Lumpe Tower (see Rossiter's guide p.338). The logical approach to this cliff is to climb one of several three-star routes on Lumpe Tower, like "Swanson Arete", 5.5, or "The Ytrid Deed", 5.6, or on Tower One, like "The Yellow Spur", 5.9. If you still crave another pitch or two after one of these routes, this wall is worth a visit.

Located 15 feet left of "Burning Desire" 10d, "Fanning the Flame" 5.8 is a gently overhanging, right-leaning crack that parallels an incipient crack a few feet to its left. The climbing is characterized by juggy face holds on good rock, a few crack moves and a tricky finish.

Protection 

Bring a single set of cams up to #2 Camalot, and small to medium nuts. There is a tree about 20 feet beyond where the route tops out, so have some long slings or webbing handy for the anchor.