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East Temple
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10th Division, The T 
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Fang Spire 
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Fang Spire 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C3

   
Type:  Aid, 5 pitches, 650', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C3 [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988
Page Views: 2,805
Submitted By: ErikK on Mar 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Closer shot of Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbend...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of East Temple. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .

There is good topo from bigwall.com.

There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.

Protection 

This route goes all clean; no hammers needed.

  • Two sets of HB offsets or micro nuts
  • Two sets stoppers
  • Three sets of C3s
  • Three sets of C4s #.3 - #.4
  • Two sets of C4s #.5 - #4
  • Two talons
  • One large hook
  • Other assorted hooks
  • Two 60m ropes

Location 

Park at the pull off 1/2mile up on the Mt. Carmel Hwy form the Zion Canyon Rd. and Mt. Carmel Hwy junction. The pull off is on the left just before the bridge.

The Fang Spire is almost directly above the pullout on the left side of East Temple. Basically follow the trail that leads out from the pull off along the river and go directly up to the base. It's a short but steep approach.


Photos of Fang Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Hook Placement
Hook Placement
Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbender on the Fang Spire on 10/24/09. Taken from the Cragmont trail.
Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbender on the Fang ...
Ahhhh the summit, This is a really cool ledge, it would be a sweet spot to bivy.
BETA PHOTO: Ahhhh the summit, This is a really cool ledge, it ...
The Fang Spire is in the center of the photo, it's got a white colored cap on it.
BETA PHOTO: The Fang Spire is in the center of the photo, it's...
D-N-A on the summit.
D-N-A on the summit.
TDA on the first pitch
TDA on the first pitch
P1 is the crack in the center of the light colored rock that trends left.  Cruiser C1.
BETA PHOTO: P1 is the crack in the center of the light colored...

Comments on Fang Spire Add Comment
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By Bill Bones
Apr 1, 2008

One of the best non trade routes in Zion. The artificial Aid is a bit lame "just to keep the grade harder" but good none the less. Cool top out. It's missing a summit register:( 2 sky hooks and 2 talons will do you just right unless you want to bring a rack of both for placements.
By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Feb 20, 2009

Topo
By Darin Berdinka
Nov 22, 2013

Climbed the spire in November 2013. Great summit with some excellent climbing. Based on the condition of the rap tat it doesn't see a lot of traffic.

Approach sucks but only takes about an hour.
Anchors are all plenty good.

P1 is long and straightforward. P2 has easy free climbing (5.7?) but is the aid crux with a stretch of bad brass and hooks just before the anchor. P3 is glorious but felt quite a bit easier than the 5.9+ C3 rating. Skip the first anchor and continue to the deluxe rap station. P4 and P5 are a bit of a let down due to a very contrived level of risk. P4 has many "rivets" which appear to be copperheads lightly pressed into holes. P5 starts with 30+' of bathooks before a mantle leads to some stimulating slab climbing. Looked to me like there's a free climbing prize waiting up there via significant variations to this route.

double set of brass and stoppers
3x small to 0.75 Camalot
2x #1 - #3 Camalot
1x #4 C4 Camalot
hooks included 2x bathooks or filed Cliff Hangers/Grappling hooks
definitely bring #0.25 - #1 Tricams