Fancy Free  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 50 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, 1981 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Sep 21, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Get gear early...you're climbing above a chasm.

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb the large, left facing corner for about 30 feet. Just past a small roof there is a thin crack on the right face of the dihedral. Traverse the crack right to the arete (crux), then up this to a threaded rap station. You could continue past this point for more cliombing, but most of the the rock above is absolutely choked with lichen.

Location 

At the S turn on the carriage road at the end of the Trapps, head into the woods. Fancy Free is down and right of the Dick's Prick pinnacle.

Protection 

Several small TCUS, e.g, Metolius OO and 0 for the crux.

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Amit halfway through the crux.