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Routes in Middle Spire
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Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Robert Oravetz & Eric Barrett, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,786 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Aerili on Nov 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
Climb a short, very thin crack to a short slab run-out. First set of anchors are around the right of the headwall in front of you. Second pitch consists of some vertical face climbing on bolts on the west side of the headwall to the top.
I didn't climb the second pitch, so I am unsure if the 10b rating comes from this section or not. Otherwise I would rate the crack section 9+. Those with bigger fingers might call it 10a.
I didn't climb the second pitch, so I am unsure if the 10b rating comes from this section or not. Otherwise I would rate the crack section 9+. Those with bigger fingers might call it 10a.
Location
On the far right end of the north side of Middle Spire. First pitch can be rapped off chain anchors which sit over what I believe is the start to Harding's Other Chimney. Not sure if there are separate anchors at the top of p2 as well, but if not, set a gear anchor and rap off of Candyland's anchors to the south.
Photos
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