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 ADVANCED
The Nappy Dugout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Drunken Monkey S 
Family Unit S 
Fossil Family S 
Fringe Dweller S 
Frizzle Frye S 
Ivory Tower S 
Kingfisher S 
Lung Fish S 
Mr. Cranky Pants S 
Perfect Gun, The S 
PMS S 
PMT S 
Z Man S 

Family Unit 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong, 1993
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 22, 2001

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Description 

It's a good thing we have Matt Samet logging in the hard routes, because it leaves all of the terrific Matt Samet warm-ups for the rest of us, and while Family Unit may only warm up some, for others it's just a fine climb.

Begin on the left most line of bolts in the Nappy Dugout Cave. After 30 feet, you can move right into Fossil Family (12a) or stay left on Family Unit. Some interesting moves, sidesteps, and edge hauling take you the roof. Pulling the roof runs at 12d and comprises a two bolt variation (nice job on Hong's part to let us gumbies off the hook!). Watch you footing above the fourth bolt, since the pro gets a bit spacey but not worth screaming about.

Good stone, excellent climbing, and some mind control are well worth a deuce. The line stays shady nearly all the time.


Protection 

Bring ten draws and a rope.



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By James D
Jun 20, 2014

This used to be the same start as Fossil Family and you cut left, and now it has its own start. Is the rating the same?

By D-Storm
Aug 13, 2014

No, James. The direct start was added by Darek Krol a couple years ago and checks in at 12b. I found the sequence to be rather unpleasant and shoulder intensive, but maybe I missed something. The roof is really fun. Tape the base of your left pinky to protect it from a sharp finger lock....