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Good thing we have Matt Samet logging in the hard routes because it leaves all of the terrific Matt Samet warm-ups for the rest of us, and while Family Unit may only warm up some, for others it's just a fine climb. Begin on the left most line of bolts in the Nappy Dugout Cave. After 30 feet, you can move right into Fossil Family (12a) or stay left on Family Unit. Some interesting moves, side steps, and edge hauling take you the roof. Pulling the roof runs at 12d and comprises a two bolt variation (nice job on Hong's part to let us gumbies off the hook!!). Watch you footing above the fourth bolt since the pro gets a bit spacey, but not worth screaming about. Good stone, excellent climbing, and some mind control are well worth a deuce. The line stays shady nearly all the time.
Bring ten draws and a rope.
|By Evan Winn|
Aug 24, 2009
Bring a wrench! A bunch of hangers are spinning and the bolts are finger tight, including the anchor. They look all right, but need some torque.